2 Attachment(s)
HOW TO, Install Mono + Sub by Removing Stock Sub
Hey guys, after much thinking about the BOSE Audio system and going to see Rob and Beyond Customs in the Western Suburbs I decided to upgrade the following:
-Remove Stock Bose SUB
-Install via audio converter a new Mono Block
-Install Sub in Hatch
I manage to get Orion Audio HTR 1000w Mono Block and 15" HTR 4 Ohm sub for $650 which is amazing but even tho the 15" is way too much for the car atm, but I haven't had it tuned yet.
Ok so on to the install :).
1. Remove the Front passenger seat to get to the Factory Sub. Obviously remove plastics covering the seating bolts then unbolt and get a mate to tilt set backwards while you still your head under. Underneath the seat is the airbag sensor and weight sensor for the passenger, this disconnects with pulling the black lever which acts like a hinge.
Once this is off, there are 2 clips connecting the wire we need to the sub just pop these off with pliers and then finally you have the chance to un-clip the Sub with the small white connect in the middle console, and only has 2 wires leading into it, it’s a normal clip and just pull.
Now remove seat from car which makes it easy to move around and wire stuff up :), I found if you recline the seat back more it’s easier to fit out the door lol.
2. Unbolting the sub, quick and easy couple of bolts and screws and just lift, isn't heavy... For those people that think removing the stock sub from the system removes all bass... it’s a lie, sub woofer is 4" and doors destroy it for bass. No you have an empty area :).
Attachment 6203
3. I was recommend to run 4 gauge wire to power the Amp, these was run under carpet and pops out where the old sub was mounted in the little area of carpet that was cut out by Mazda, from there we ran it straight up the passenger foot well, and through a section in the firewall where (we assumed it was the main lume) is. From here run it up behind the battery and leave to the right of the battery.
4. Now it’s time to attach the Audio line converter, the one you need is from speaker wires to RCA, the one I got had 4 coloured wires which ended up being for Front Left Rear Left Front Right Rear Right. Now after you got that snip the white with a blue stripe wire and the white with a grey stripe wire with used to connect to your sub, snip it so you leave some wire to possibly reconnect old BOSE Sub when you go to re-sell you MPS (your choice).
Now here the Blue Striped Wire is Positive and the Grey Striped wire is Negative. Now get all the non-striped wires from the Audio line Converter and since there positive connect them to the Blue Striped Sub wire, then do the same for Negatives... For the time being we just connected with tape but solder when finishing :).
5. From the output of the line converter just purchase male-male RCA plugs since the Audio converter has like 20cm of wire and the Amp is mounted next to it no need for huge cables under seat :), plug these into your amp :).
6. Earthing your amp, it’s not too hard got harder when I installed the seat... I just earthed it between the car floor (bear metal) and the seat; this was harder to do in the end cause when I went to reattach the seat needed to make a metal extension plate to ensure the ground was touching metal. All you need is a thin piece of metal; make 2 holes 1 for seat bolt to go through and 1 for grounding wire to attach to and then you’re done.
7. Running speaker wire to your boot/hatch :), easy run the wire under the carpet using the other BOSE amp carpet cut out (opposite to the 4-gauge), and then run it up inside the carpet along the rear seat, between the seat and the door obviously :P, then remove the floor of hatch and wire should appear, maybe remove rear tools to help get a view of it.
8. The Amp needs 12volts to work as the power we attached before is a main and is used for Sub. The way that my mates and I decided to do it was to tap into it to the 12v socket in the centre console storage. To do this what you need to do is, open the console and try pulling the drink holder and handbrake surround section out, once this is out bolt the back end of the centre console from inside the storage box, this allows us to at least lift the console a little bit and help with workability. After this stick your hand inside the console and push the clips for the 12v Socket and Audio Line in and they pop out (with some force) then remove the wire clips and there we go, from memory the yellow is power and the black is earth, tap into the yellow and then run the 12v wire down the carpet and have it pop out near the amp and connect.
I won’t tell you how to install the sub because once connections are in the boot it’s easy. Once all the wires are connected and all is working is sure to solder the 12v connection, and also the Audio-Line Converter and old Sub connections.
My Amp has a remote sub controller, which needs a AUX cable to the amp and also 12V and an Earth, I did all this while I had my centre console apart, the sub controller is in my storage compartment :).
Sorry it takes so long to explain but hopefully this helps J. PM me if need and more help with an install like this.
Attachment 6204
Cheers James
