I thought the only way a CRV would drift is sliding down a icy hill with the driver praying it doesn't crash
Hahaha, we had like 2000 model crvs. used to hammer the crappa outa them. 4 wheel drift around Collie motorplex, out on the beach, and up our old test track. was great fun, just not the most exciting cars..
I thought the only way a CRV would drift is sliding down a icy hill with the driver praying it doesn't crash
The most hectic thing I've done in a car, was in a CRV hahaha... had a manual one, could just kick the clutch and it would slide.
Ours is used for quite the opposite, to have this one in the back
![]()
Last edited by rogwick; 05-10-2011 at 03:13 PM.
lol at CRV's...
Woeful cars... Although I must admit, when I was younger the CRX-Z (I think it was? 2-door semi-sporty one?) looked pretty cool... Then recently test drove one with the girlfriend, and discovered how terrible that was too.
But yeah you can drift anything hey, we used to slide the motorised beds at hollywood private before I left there, lol down hill hallway and going lock-to-lock with a 400+ kg bed... What could possibly go wrong
With great power comes great fuel consumption...
M P S - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp| Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers
hehehe
Last edited by Chuckie Cheese; 05-10-2011 at 07:21 PM.
Mazda6 MPS
BNR STAGE 1 - COBB ACCESSPORT STAGE 2 - CP-e HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP - CP-E DOWNPIPE - 3" MAGNAFLOW ZORST - DENSO ITV22 SPARK PLUGS - COBB SF INTAKE - COBB TURBO INLET PIPE - JBR 70a TRILOGY MOUNTS - SURE ANCHORS - SURE COUNTERWEIGHT - 2XS SHORT SHIFT PLATE - 2XS STEALTH BLOW OFF VALVE - KING PERFORMANCE LOWERED SPRINGS - BILSTEIN B8 SHOCKS - WHITELINE REAR SWAY BAR - DBA 4000 CROSS DRILLED ROTORS - HAWK PERFORMANCE HPS BRAKE PADS
If Civics and Integras were RWD I think they would probably be the most popular modified car in the world
Just installed the turbo-to-intake piping I picked up from HighonPSI, and far out, it's made a noticeable difference immediately. Much smoother leadup onto boost, and slightly more open feeling top end... Also a lot more angry noises coming from it. Thanks so much mate, pretty wrapped with it!
The factory unit was extremely restrictive..
As a result of my impatience last night though, I managed to break the hose nipple off the stocker boost solenoid on the non-pressurised side. I've glued it up and it works fine, but decided to order an aftermarket solenoid. The one I've chosen (Grimmspeed USA) plugs straight into the stock loom, and can be programmable down the track when I get a tune.
$150 odd delivered.
And yeah too right - I've always said that the integras should be RWD. The civic I don't think so though, I've driven an extremely angry type-R, and I don't think it would be better as a rear drive.. Keiichi Tsuchiya would probably have a lot to say on the same subject too
![]()
This video has a bit of everything. BMW, honda Vtec motor, RWD, drifting, Keiichi Tsuchiya, girl in bikini top, high revving tacho to watch...
No worries buddy, glad your happy with it!
Btw your car is extremely clean... I need to get my car detailed to get rid of the swirls and scratches haha.
Hehe, yeah I would have hung around for more of a chat, but by the time I got up your end of town I was running late to get home... So had to fly. Thanks though! It needs a good polishing and I need to clean the bugs off the front bar... I do want to wind up with stance like yours though.
WELCOME!!
I found that my fuel warning light comes on when the needle is right on the bottom mark on the guage, then the computer shows 40km left to run, at urban speeds. That of course would be subject to the gear you are in and how heavy you are on the right pedal! But if you're that low on gas, then you need to adopt a fuel conservation driving style anyway!
Assuming the "40km remaining" figure is correct and given my urban fuel burn 11.9 l/100, that would suggest about 4-5 litres minumum remaining. That seems to fit with what I record in my refueling at such times, though plainly I don't make a practice of it!.
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18
I have found that I have at least a good 5 minutes driving left once the computer says 0KM remaining...
Chris.
Yeah, since posting that I've pretty much gotten into the swing of topping up when I'm down to around 40-50kms remaining on the computer..
Thought I'd update this...
(Might need to do an actual "my car" thread soon, but oh well..
Grimmspeed boost solenoid installed since I broke the old one (and glued it back together, lol)... Didn't want to be driving around on broken parts so this was ordered. Rocked up really quick too!
Also bought an 'Ultragauge EM' as per the related thread in the tech sectionThese things work well!
Cheers
does the new boost solenoid do anything different?
feel anything? car behave differently?
i like doing small cheap mods like this, as ive noticed the factory spec for many parts on the MPS (cough REM and diff mounts COUGH) are rather... sad.
Ice
Yeah actually, before the solenoid went on, the factory controller let the thing spike a bit, now it holds a steady 16.5psi through 3rd. Comes on boost a little better, and accelerates a touch smoother.. But then again my old one was broken and glued, and I'm sure that it wasn't working as well as it should have been..
Thought I'd share some photos from today at a mates place... His 31 makes my 6 really look like a tractor...
![]()