Auto? Good lord, another deranged lunatic who deals with tristan! haha
He used to do work on my old MR2 turbo! Shame that car had to go...for what it was, it was stupidly fun!
Certainly would be interested to do that.
Bearing in mind that yours also has suspension, which will improve the braking characteristics quite dramatically. Tyres will also contribute an awful lot.
I'm planning to fab up a master cylinder stopper when I put the brakes on too, not that it'll make a lot of difference in terms of stopping distance, but should improve pedal feel quite a bit. Don't know if I'll spend some extra coin and get slotted rotors, depends on whether or not the evo/galant rotors will work. I've heard mixed opinions on the matter - but will not rely on it.
Auto? Good lord, another deranged lunatic who deals with tristan! haha
He used to do work on my old MR2 turbo! Shame that car had to go...for what it was, it was stupidly fun!
Yeah, been good mates with Adam for years, and know Tris through various avenues...are probably one of the best workshops out at the moment IMO.
heya peoples
im a newbie to MPS6 to lol
can people let me no about cruises and so on
new to the turbo seen ha
Hi Dperrin.
Welcome. Another 6 is a great thing.
Keep an eye out here for upcoming cruises.
Maybe one of the nice moderators can shift this to your own intro post?
G'day Dperrin
Removed the intake resonator tonight, what a prick of a thing!
Can't say it's a marked improvement in intake noise, but was interesting enough to take a bit of a close look under the car.
Did notice a bit of an oil leak to the back of the bash plate/plastic thing, but couldn't track the source. Seemed to be at the back of the engine. Will talk to the car yard about that.
Is there something common enough that leaks that this could be a sign of? I know how ambiguous that is to ask, but might as well see about some input.
Cheers guys
Aaron
Transfer case is a known source of oil leaks in that region.
Hmm, cheers. Is it a gasket leak that usually occurs? As I said, it'll be something I'll let Mazda look at since I have a warranty, but good to have some idea of what the issue is. Thanks![]()
It'll be the transfer case oil seal, this was identified as a problem with the MPS 6 and CX-7 and a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) was issued for it to be repaired under warranty. Sometimes the oil leak is from the gearbox too, when my 6 was leaking I'd tend to lose about 100ml from the transfer case and 100-200ml from the gearbox every 10,000kms.
R36 - Just like an MPS6 except with a growly V6
Has anyone got a link to a digital copy of the TSB?
You guys are definitely a good source if info here!
Cheers
I've posted the TSB here:
http://www.ozmpsclub.com/forum/drive...vel-leaks.html
Thanks for that. Am going to get on to it right away.![]()
Not much of an update but I thought it's worth sharing..
Just ordered a whiteline 24mm rear sway bar, hopefully should be here in a week or so...
And this weekend I'm going to get the rear guards rolled, as they seem to demolish my tyres in hard corners/ heavy acceleration..
I've also sorted a SRI and a pod, but that's going to wait a few weeks for the bloke to get back into Perth...
It'll get it's next service in the coming weeks, and I'll get them to inspect all the engine mounts and diff mounts, as it's got a really noticable thud between shifting when you take your foot off the clutch, especially so in corners.. I can't work out if it's a thump coming from the diff or the engine though.
Hey man. Our car does the thud thing too, unless you are really gentle on the change and slip the clutch, but given the fact the clutch replacement cost is so high, I think i will be taking a leaf outa your book andn getting the mounts checked.
With great power comes great fuel consumption...
M P S - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp| Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers
Actually SpudSec, I was going to ask you a question too...
You deal with oils, yeah? What oils do you run through the car? (Engine, diffs, box, transfer case?)
Since my last service, the oil they've used seems to make the car rattle while it's cold. I don't think it's the motor rattling, I think it's driveline related. Goes away once things are warm... Any ideas?
And yeah Rogwick, that's what the guys at Tokyo Motorsport said initially too..
While my cars all shiny at the moment, I should get you to come around and snap some photos of the car... Getting the white and red cars next to eachother would look the goods.. Let me know when the next photo op is!
Last edited by MadAussie; 05-10-2011 at 12:38 PM.
I'm not alone with this issue!! I've been told its not really an issue and one can experience worse clunks in Honda CRV's and Skyline GTR's. I'm getting new tyres on Saturday so I've been giving my car a bootful, still going hard, clunk or no clunk. It's only really noticable on heavy quick shifts or if you lift the clutch really fast. Mechanic pretty much challenged me to break it. I'd love to know what your mechanics suggest though. If you check my rides thread you'll see I was posting about the issue and what I thought it was (U-Joint) Turns out my U-Joint is fine and my diff seems to have normal diff play however there is "play" in that clutch kit...wear and tear on the pressure plates or something
With great power comes great fuel consumption...
M P S - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp| Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers
Yes, now I see, the CRVs have it shocking. we used to have a couple at Kinetic as test cars, they used to squeel and clunk.
As for the Oils, at the moment I am still on the manufacturers oils( well the dealership, got suckered into a warranty when we bought the car, and given when I test drove it I had some warranty type issues, Ithought best to get the warranty. BUT that means I waisted 2000bucks if I dont use Parkland to service etc. we have no dramas with driveline noise when its cold, but I am not sure if the oils have actually been changed. ( poor form from me i know.) Anyways, after next service and minor fixup with some issues, i will be sorting out what to use. Penrite oils seem to be ok, or the good stuff also is the Motul oils. just expensive thats all. Grade wise, I am looking into it. see what i can findout, as every car is different.
Drove my parents 06 CRV the other night. I down shifted fairly quick and let the clutch out quick, no rev matching or anything....much bigger clunk than mine. Mine feels more of a solid clunk.
The CRV sounded like there was more involved. I hate driving a CRV anyway! haha
With great power comes great fuel consumption...
M P S - 6 - RR | Cobb AP | CAI | TIP | ATP GTX28R | 3.25" TMIC | SS DP | REM | 3" Zorst | SSP Anchors & Countershift | DBA Rotors | K/Springs | Upper & Lower Bracing | Alpine Type S 12" sub MRP-M500 Amp| Grille | STi Lip | Shark Fin | 6000K HID | Fog Light Tint | Twin DEFI gauges | Custom Decals & Badges | LED lighting | CF Mirrors & Pillars | Black rims Red callipers