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Thread: Jason's Gen 2 Build

  1. #1
    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    Default Jason's Gen 2 Build

    Hi Everyone, hope this story proves to be somewhat entertaining/informative...

    I bought my MPS in Jan 2018 after owning a BK N/A sedan (seemed like the next logical step). The car was 100% stock, 150,000km's on the clock, but it had a full service history and drove well. Soon after buying the car and enjoying it for a few weeks, I had to make it mine. I started by replacing the blown front shocks with Koni streets and lowering it with Kingspring SSL's from my previous BK. I made a custom intake using stainless tubing retaining the factory MAF sensor and housing, installed a HDI gen 2 FMIC, Autotech HPFP internals all in preparation for a custom dyno tune. Also fabbed up a custom exhaust from the axle-back for a bit of note.

    After picking up the car from the tuner, I was blown away. The responsiveness on the factory K04 was fantastic and pulled strongly all the way to redline. The factory torque limits by gear were removed, making the car a bit of handfull in low gears, but with some finesse it was fine. That very evening, after a spirited drive through a local back-road, the dreaded turbo seal smoke made itself evident....

    I ordered a Corksport TD05-18G straight away and after 4 weeks it arrived. I installed it over the weekend and then got the tune touched up on the Monday to accommodate the new turbo. Response was reduced, but car did make more power and provided the "turbo surge" that is synonymous with larger turbo's. I was happy. Three days later, after a pull through 1st to 4th gears (having a bit too much fun), the car developed an aggressive misfire. Blown spark plugs perhaps? (The nightmare begins here...)

    Inspecting the spark plugs showed cyl 2 plug with cracked porcelain hanging off the ground electrode, and cyl 4 plug with a piece of porcelain missing and no ground electrode at all. The porcelain was not in the cylinder so it must have made its way out the exhaust valve. Compression test showed 160psi across cyl's 1-3 and 0psi compression on 4! A leakdown test was conducted to determine the results, with air from the compressor going straight out the exhaust - BLOWN EXHAUST VALVE - great...

    I put the car on a float and took it back to the tuner (also a workshop). They tore the engine down and found a burnt exhaust valve (at this stage). I decided to get the head reconditioned and the pistons re-ringed and new big-end bearings, while it was all apart. A few weeks of waiting later, and they had removed the pistons and rods to find - A BENT ROD on cylinder 4. Can't get much worse from here.

    I then decided to go all out and recondition the engine with forged components and upgrades where necessary. That's where we're up to now. Still waiting on the machine shop to finish the head and block machining/assembly. List of mods below:

    Manley H-Tuff rods, Manley 2618 pistons, ACL Race bearings, ACL rings, Supertech exhaust valves, Supertech dual valve springs, Supertech titanium retainers, ARP head bolts, ACT stage 2 clutch kit SMF conversion, JBR balance shaft delete kit, JBR sump baffle, ATP 3" downpipe.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Jason's Gen 2 Build-27788419_1973058639403093_3922044340570577400_o.jpg  

  2. #2
    Nexus's Avatar
    Nexus is offline Administrator
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    Sounds like a mission. I've not enjoyed these kind of issues with either of mine, but I've kept things relatively conservative....all the best with the build, let us know how it goes.

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    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    A few photos from the adventure

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    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    Found out from the engine builder/machinist that the engine is almost ready.... Getting keen!!!

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    Yeah, I'd be getting keen too.
    I've seen a few bent rods since people started modding the turbo MZR, but I don't recall seeing any burnt exhaust valves - maybe I wasn't paying attention but do you have any concensus on what caused the valve to be missing a bit? Pieces of spark plug fouling the valve?

    Spark plugs broke due to ? Knock?
    Last edited by Nexus; 04-11-2018 at 06:08 PM.

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    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    I'm not 100% sure what cause the valve to burn out, but my best hypothesis is that the engine went lean and detonation occurred in cylinder 2 and 4. The spark plugs were at the stock heat range, and the tips may have been glowing hot and caused the procelain to break off. In the case of cylinder 4, some the porcelain may have damaged or gotten caught on the exhaust valve seat on the way out, and cause the valve to burn out due to a gap created or holding the valve open. I got the injectors flow tested and they found that injectors on cyl's 2 and 4 were flowing insufficiently, so this may have cause those cylinder to run lean. It's all a very complicated tapestry of events, and thus its very difficult to diagnose...

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    Nexus's Avatar
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    I'm thinking lean and ultra-high combustion temps would be the root cause. overheating spark plug causes ceramics to break apart, then you have bits fouling moving parts, such as the valve. I'm thinking just a scored valve sealing surface might be enough for it to start leaking high pressure high temp gas on power stroke when it's supposed to be closed and the end result of that is that the scored area starts eroding - basically melting away, becoming a hole.

    How'd the turbo and bore fare? presumably bits of spark plug and valve went through the turbo, and having things rattle around the combustion chamber is a horror story when it comes to mechanical sympathy.
    Do you have instrumentation - i.e. an Accessport or similar? I would have expected knock retard values to give you a heads up. It can all happen pretty quickly though. A single quarter mile run melted a piston on someone I remember reading about.
    I'm considering a garret GTX2867 and downpipe change for my BK a bit down the track - makes me think it will be wise to check injector flow health and be thorough about checking it's all up for the job - better safe than sorry.

    Quote Originally Posted by onion63601 View Post
    I'm not 100% sure what cause the valve to burn out, but my best hypothesis is that the engine went lean and detonation occurred in cylinder 2 and 4. The spark plugs were at the stock heat range, and the tips may have been glowing hot and caused the procelain to break off. In the case of cylinder 4, some the porcelain may have damaged or gotten caught on the exhaust valve seat on the way out, and cause the valve to burn out due to a gap created or holding the valve open. I got the injectors flow tested and they found that injectors on cyl's 2 and 4 were flowing insufficiently, so this may have cause those cylinder to run lean. It's all a very complicated tapestry of events, and thus its very difficult to diagnose...
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Federal RS-RR - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold - Hypertech tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - PC based GPS and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift.

  8. #8
    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    Turbo is fine and bore was fine as well. I went with Manley 88mm pistons (+0.5mm oversize) so the bore needed to be machined anyway. I agree, it doesn't take long for valves, pistons etc. to deteriorate in such a harsh environment.

    I didn't have an accessport. My tuner taps into the ECU directly using Alientek software. I will be installing a boost gauge and using Torque Pro and my OBD reader to log and monitor the vehicle status once she's back on the road.

    Considering I have issues with both cylinders that injectors were flowing insufficiently on, makes me think getting your injectors tested for peace of mind wouldn't be a bad idea at all.

  9. #9
    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    My dyno shop have the engine ready to go into it's waiting engine bay.

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    shaneski is offline Forum Addict
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    What ARPs are you using for head studs.

  11. #11
    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by shaneski View Post
    What ARPs are you using for head studs.
    ARP2000 series

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  12. #12
    shaneski is offline Forum Addict
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    ARP 2000's do not have a good rep for head studs on these cars they only have a 190ksi UTS, quite a few have lifted at just 400hp. Stock head bolts have shown to hold 500. Best bet is L19s, H11s or there is a newer set out Age 625+ .

    SPEED PERF6RMANC3 CA 625+ Head Studs For Mazda MZR-DISI - SPEED PERF6RMANC3

  13. #13
    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    So far so good with the ARP head studs. Back on the road with just over 1000 k's and loving it. Clutch chatter is a but odd but something i'll have to get used to. Looking to enjoy the car bit more now.

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  14. #14
    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    A few weeks now since getting the car back and have sorted out a couple of smallish issues. Was overboosting to 24psi when targetting 20psi. Solved that with a new Cobb EBCS. Fabbed up a filter cover and tidied up some vacuum lines.

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  15. #15
    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    Photoshoot after stock 18" wheels painted and polished

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  16. #16
    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    Spent this weekend in the engine bay, got a few things ticked off the list:

    -Custom 3 inch intake installed (leftover intercooler piping from a mates xr6t lol)
    -Ecu relocation
    -Battery box delete
    -Ignition coil harness partial tuck


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  17. #17
    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    Pulling the original harness apart and seperating into two looms.

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  18. #18
    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    Doesn't seem to be much activity on this thread but I'll continue posting anyways.

    Checked cam lobes today after 2500k's since the rebuild and dual valve springs. Still looking fresh as a daisy.

    Decided to give the valve cover and calipers a refresh also.

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  19. #19
    Byrd's Avatar
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    Looks great, onion Took my rebuilt BK MPS on it's first decent drive country Victoria on weekend - goodness it's a fun car to drive

  20. #20
    onion63601 is offline Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Byrd View Post
    Looks great, onion Took my rebuilt BK MPS on it's first decent drive country Victoria on weekend - goodness it's a fun car to drive
    They are a bucket of fun! Did you upgrade anything during your build?

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