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Thread: Hi! I'm a newbie and would love some advise! Service + tune

  1. #21

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    Maybe he thought it was an sp25 lol. Think the O2 is more like $150 hence a boost leak test first. I didn't resurface them, can't remember what they measured, but it wasn't much left to be worth it. By the 2nd set of pads (around 80k) they were too thin to work properly and brakes would fade easily - some scary times! Changed to DBA T3.

    Ramsas were good but yeah, fairly dusty. You do need dot4 I think, but not high temp stuff unless you are managing to overheat them.

    $320 for pads. Lol. Get a quote from Mazda for pads, rotors and fluid. It would almost be cheaper to buy a new car!

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

  2. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lachlan View Post
    Maybe he thought it was an sp25 lol. Think the O2 is more like $150 hence a boost leak test first. I didn't resurface them, can't remember what they measured, but it wasn't much left to be worth it. By the 2nd set of pads (around 80k) they were too thin to work properly and brakes would fade easily - some scary times! Changed to DBA T3.

    Ramsas were good but yeah, fairly dusty. You do need dot4 I think, but not high temp stuff unless you are managing to overheat them.

    $320 for pads. Lol. Get a quote from Mazda for pads, rotors and fluid. It would almost be cheaper to buy a new car!

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

    Quick update, he had a look at its not the o2 sensor ($230)? But he says its the afr meter on the other side of the cat, which is 500$ from Mazda! OMG!

    He is going to clean the stuff with soot on it or something, which is ~140$ and put it all back, clear the code and hope it doesn't come back, if the code comes back, then think replacing the AFR. I assume only Mazda will sell the part, so it's going to cost 500+200 for labour ish.

    510ish paid for service and diagnostics + clean so far, I declined to change brakes ATM.

  3. #23

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    Fingers crossed!

    The 02 sensor is what gives info to the ecu to calculate AFR. The car has 2, one before and one after the primary cat. The first one is the most important one which the ecu uses. As far as I am aware the 2nd one is only used to measure catalyst efficiency (compare readings before and after cat and look for a difference). So the only one that is possibly causing problems is the first one on the downpipe before the cat (http://www.mazdaspeedforums.org/wiki...title=Exhausts). You can see it from the engine bay - behind the engine on the left. I'm sure you can get them elsewhere and much cheaper too - maybe even ebay. You can also clean the MAF with $10 superhero auto spray stuff.

    If you get a scan gauge of some sort, you should be able to see wacky AFRs if there really is a problem rather than just throwing parts at the car :s

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

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    @Lachlan

    Thanks for the info, and that link, I think you are correct, that 'only one that is possibly causing problems if the first one' - Nice!

    Just got my car back today, engine light turned on right after I left, but not too suprised since nothing replaced, only something was decarbon'ed.


    As you describe it, the first sensor being the issue worries me, as you said it is the most important one. I have not felt any difference in the cars performance, do you think it is safe for the car for me to drive it 300km tomorrow?

    I have attached the form I have from the service today, but it is slightly confusing as he says (or the code says) it is the 'post cat fuel trim system too lean' which I believe is the code for P2096, and he believes it is the 1st sensor too (like you), but why is it called 'post cat' then - as I understand it, the post cat is the second o2 sensor?

    The part is 550 from mazda, is there any chance I could buy this part elsewhere? Do you think it is vital I replace ASAP, as I don't want to do damage to the car.


    Apologies for asking so much from you, would appreciate any help! or suggestions where else to post


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  5. #25

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    @ugh Sorry I didn't reply. I assume it's ok to drive gently, I just wouldn't go WOT. Any luck finding the problem?

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

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    According to what I've learnt when my AFR was out of wack, the O2 sensor before the cats in conjunction with your MAF and other sensors helps in controlling the AFR via the ECU at close loop (it will try to hit target of 14.7). At WOT the ECU will go to open loop meaning this sensor will just read values (around 11.4- 11.6) and your fuelling will rely mainly on your MAF curve. On a stock tune, close loop is from the lowest calculated load (idle) to I think 0.8 to 1 load. As soon as you go pass it, your ECU will go to open loop. I would get a scanner if I were you. They are not that expensive.

  7. Default

    hey Mark,

    Got an AP today, you sound like you know what your talking about, any ideas how I can use the AP to find out whats wrong? I assume I have to make a log, WOT? Gear?

    Cheers

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    Have you paired it with your car?

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    Yes! Flashed the stage 0 map on it, have not driven it yet

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    Go to troubleshooting page and have a look at the code causing your engine light. Do not reset it.

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    Haha, when i installed the device, I had to pick a map (so I picked the stage 0), and then it automatically cleared active codes. I am going out for a drive soon, so will report back with the code when it reappears. Mechanic scanned it as a "post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank 1" P2096. MAF cleaned, second o2 sensor replaced, ?AFR decarboned? (something was decarboned) - light still on (mechanic told me to go to Mazda, only they (so not him) could 'change the parameters' so it doesn't throw a code for $120 (have not done yet, bought AP instead, figured I could do the same thing, or with the OTS maps)

    Cheers

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    edit:delete same thing

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    @lachlan
    no worries, things bout to get more interesting, got my AP today,

    also have (close to) WOT a few times this past week already hahaha
    (or 80% throttle at least, but all less then 2 seconds)

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    Update: CEL has not returned so far , not sure if this is because the AP is continually clearing the code, or suppressing this particular code. Need tips on how to do a proper log, do I need to WOT or can I just log normal driving? How long is the average log? What live parameters do people usually use for their 6 screens?

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    The Access Port won't clear codes automatically.

    Some info here on certain parameters COBB Tuning – Typical Data Logging Results for 2010 MAZDASPEED3

    And how to log, do it from 3000rpm not 2600 How to properly log your WOT run - Mazdaspeed Forums

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    delete.... forum is acting up when trying to post and asks you to leave and duplicates post

  17. #37

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    Hopefully it's good news then. Check with the AP because it can pick up 'pending codes' before the light comes on. You could also do a couple of logs at idle and part throttle first just to see if fuel trims and afr are in check before doing a WOT log.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

  18. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lachlan View Post
    Hopefully it's good news then. Check with the AP because it can pick up 'pending codes' before the light comes on. You could also do a couple of logs at idle and part throttle first just to see if fuel trims and afr are in check before doing a WOT log.
    Yes fingers crossed I will try and check that tomorrow.
    How long does the idle log need to be for? 20 seconds?
    By part throttle, do you mean, e.g. second gear, e.g. constant 30% throttle all the way to redline?
    I will do these using the stage 0 tune, and then try the WOT.
    Hopefully some of you legends could help me interp the log

    @shaneski
    Thanks, I will keep them both bookmarked, WOT thread is interesting!
    Would a third gear pull put me at around 90k's? (I have a 90k stretch close to home)
    Also, is it recommend to do the WOT on level ground? Will a hill stuff up the log?A
    Also, do I have to press 'log' once I am in third, or will it be easy to see where the important stuff is, assuming I get up to third quickly, and commence the log

    Cheers guys

  19. #39

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    Idle - yep that would be fine. Enough to see if AFR is stable and what your fuel trims are like. Part throttle - yeah, second gear would work, from start off low throttle and gradually increase it until you hit 100+ airflow (make sure you log LTFT and STFT would be good too). That should show you if your have any critical problems (like a serious leak, messed up O2 sensor etc). If it all looks good, then you should be fine to try a WOT log - just watch kr like a hawk first time.

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    Fast: RayD Tune|COBB AP|JBR|Stratified|CP-e|Xforce|Autotech|Denso|Corksport
    Turn: Bilstein|Eibach|Whiteline|JBR|Hankook RS3
    Stop: Wilwood 4pots|Custom lines|DBA T3|Remsa|TRW 600
    Rice: JL|Alpine|Focal|MiniDSP|Rota g-force|2XS|Cree|Celestial Blue FTW!

  20. #40

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    Ps I think 3rd will get you more like 130kph at 6600rpm. Hill is fine, as long as it's straight and fairly smooth. Get in 3rd at 2500rpm, hit log, roll on the throttle then at 3000 flat foot it and don't lift till redline (longer you wait, more data you get). You can set the AP to flash at a certain rpm to tell you to stop.

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