If you can stretch your budget to say $27000 you will be able to pick up a gen2 in Good condition,
//BNR3//HDI FMIC//HTP 3" intake//
// Ecutek tune//CPE DP/ HPFP//
// Tein performance street Coilovers //
// Whiteline RSB// 240kwATW bum Dyno //
If you can stretch your budget to say $27000 you will be able to pick up a gen2 in Good condition,
MY16 WRX STi Crystal White Pearl
-= Rally Armour Flaps - 2XS Muffler Delete =-
FG FPV F6 MKII Vixen - SOLD
-= Bluepower SRI - ID1000 Injectors - Venom Cat - XCAL3 - ProcessWest Stg2 Intercooler - 359 RWKW=-
CX9 Grand Touring Stormy Blue
-= The rolling armchair =-
6 MPS Velocity Red - SOLD
-=Cat Back Exhaust - Pirelli PZero=-
3 MPS Aurora Blue - SOLD
-=PG SRI - PG Inlet - ETS TMIC - GFB Hybrid BOV - Best Mufflers DP - Eibach Pro - AccessPort STG2 - Autotech HPFP - ITV22 - Michelin PSS=-
A member here has a nice looking one for sale in NSW @gurusev FYI.
As far as they go as a car ( I have a 6 ), I love Japanese, and I'd buy another Mazda or Honda any day...
I've owned BMW - spent a stack because I thought I was buying reliability and bigger gaps between service because I was doing 40,000km/year. Fail BMW reliability, Fail BMW service quality, Fail BMW Australia. Never again.
With any car you buy there will be common issues. As you know if you buy an MPS ( or any car ) and dump the clutch off the line at every red light, one day it'll go bang. On the other hand, treat it well, join a great club like this for advice and knowledge sharing and you can't go too wrong.
Good luck.
Stock Standard MPS 6 | Opticoat Paint Protection By Caffeine Fiend | Custom GPS, Bluetooth and Digital music integration by Me | Rattles by Mazda
Every car has its common faults. Just some of my previous cars and the common faults.
Prelude: timing belt tensioner failure, crank bolt breaking off and harmonic balancer falling off taking out the timing belt with it
Cressida: headgasket and auto clutchpack failure
Pintara: engine blowback pipe forcing oil into afm and ruining it
THIS..
Mate, the key is buy a car which has cheap aftermarket parts. Sooner or later, several parts need to be replaced however I am not implying that you buy a lemon.
Do your research and try to get the best deal out there. Don't be afraid to negotiate if you like the car. I did the same and got a pretty good deal.
Unfortunately, I need to sell my car quickly due to personal reasons..
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I just bought an 06 mps from a dealer, of the 6 months I've had it, it's spent 3 of them there trying to figure out what's wrong with it.
Firstly check for rattling from the engine mainly when warm or from a cold start. They finally replaced mine with a new chain, tensioner and rails, so yes mine was rattling but I didn't notice when I test drove it.
Suspension knocks are well known as well and I'm still in the process of trying to eliminate one last knock fml...
And yes, when the car is even remotely cold, forget about just a straight shift from 1st - 2nd, you need to baby it in otherwise you'll get a crunch...hopefully with an upgraded rmm and new oil it'll fix itself.
I downgraded from an 11 MPS and it was night and day difference...although I must admit I prefer the 06 as it feels more raw
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I hope it was all covered under warrenty,new fluids and REM should help.
How many KM she have?
Yeah, but not after heated arguments over whether it was an actual fault or not with the car yard (big name car yard too), it took 5 months of arguments to agree to fix it with warranty I paid for. The main issue was I had to get proof from my mechanic that there was issues, so I spent almost $500 in constant mechanic checkups to notice faults, bushes were stuffed, mounts broken, etc etc. Everytime I dropped it off to the car yard, they wouldn't fix everything.
The upside is most of my front end is completely changed including new struts...
It had 96k when I bought it. Now I still have a knock, pedders reckon its some transmission mount underneath just before the firewall, the mount is apparently knocking on the chassis cause the bush is too soft...
Oh, and all my wheels are in lots of negative camber which will need a camber kit to fix...hopefully...
I've not heard of specific examples but it's pretty easy to imagine it is due to people jamming the shift from 1st to 2nd through as hard and as fast as possible (on track or street light drags most likely) with no regard to the heavy synchro deliberately put there to (if you'll pardon the pun) baulk that sort of mechanical bastardry. Mazda have already installed a torque limiter in the lower gears for similar reasons wrt transmission, traction and CV joints, as there will always be some wally who wants to apply full power on full lock. You have to deal with all machines with a feel for the mechanisms involved. If you don't, expect to pay for the outcomes in chewed-out CV joints, short tyre life, failed synchro rings, crook clutches and more. Unfortunately, it makes it a bit of a gamble for the following owner(s).
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18
The LSD is noisy at lock at low speeds.
Good fluid can shut it up a bit.
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Never heard of gearbox problems myself.
Personally mines nearly 7 years old since new, 82,000 km always daily driven, performance tuned and serviced regularly: gearbox is good, turbo is good and on 3rd REM with usual suspension noises and on 3rd pair of rear end links also.
Just drive it, you'll want it regardless of it's alleged faults.
Cheers for the input guys much appreciated. I actually just pulled the trigger on an 09 Focus XR5 with 20,000km and a great list of mods.
Fantastic little cars with unbelievable power, plus that 5 cylinder sound![]()
Ok be seeing u in my rear view mirror then,bye
Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings