IAT Testing and Conclusion

After some 12 mths of testing and data collection i have finally reached a conclusion and no doubt this subject will create debate.
Gen 2 MPS with many modifications.
Dashawk used as reference for data.

Heat as we all understand especially here in Qld does effect HP and specifically loss of and It is crucial to have IAT at the lowest temp possible as the Maf info is read via ECU and the timing advance is directly effected by this info.
Std engine temp @ operating temp and at 80klms hr 187F.
" " " " " ' 60Klms 187F
" " " " " 100klms 187F

Note above temps would rise very quickly once in normal traffic ,as far as 212F.:poo: All data days Ambient temps of approx 86F to 90F.
SRI versus OEM std box and OEM modified box.
2 seperate SRI,s from diff manufacturers with and without heatshields.

1st MZR Sri no heatshield @60, 80,100klms hr found to constantly read IAT,s at or about 10 to12 degrees hotter than ambient.Once in traffic these IAT,s very quickly could easily climb to 20 to 35 degrees hotter than ambient.Slow to drop once cruising.

2nd MZR Sri Plus heatshield ,supplied by 2XS and insulated @60,80,100klms hr.The IAT,s where constantly 2 to 3degrees hotter than ambient. Traffic conditions would create increases thou not as much as above and would lower very quickly once cruising .

3rd OEM box with KN filter SU silicone intake hose and 2 * 63mm holes installed @60,80,100kls hr . The IAT,s where constantly 1 to 2 degrees hotter than ambient. Traffic conditions would create similar increases to no 2 instalation.

4th CPE ex nano no heatshield with full silicone intake hose and TI pipe @ 60,80,100klms hr . The IAT,s where constantly 10 degrees hotter than ambient.Traffic conditions could see increases up to 25 degrees above and where slow to recover.

No tests where done with no 4 and heatshield
All tests done with original cold air pipes from front of car still in place to direct outside flow to engine bay. Where heatshields or Oem box in place this ducting was fully installed .

Conclusion .Minimal air flow to engine bay as well as going through hot radiator .We are spending good money for HP increases and engine effeiciency only to loose out through effectiveness Use a good quality CAI as prefered option or at least an insulated air box enclosure for your SRI.
Hope this helps in your endeavours.

This correlates well with my observations of the OEM airbox IAT...Generally 1-3 degrees C above ambient when moving.
I'd come to the conclusion that so-called "CAI" aren't really cold air at all unless you really focus on where the filter is placed and how air is ducted to it.
And then why would I fit one for a pitiful 2 degree C in temperature drop. I mean the coldest air it can ingest is ambient temperature.

Obviously there's more than IAT to consider when looking at modding the intake, but certainly the "cold" in "cold air intake" is a bit of a misnomer.

SRI for obvious reasons are going to be much higher IAT, as the with and without heatshield tests show.

Which left me wondering why I would want an intake other than the OEM airbox when I can fit a K+N, make some small adjustments to the airbox and have it flowing the coolest possible air at similar flow rates to SRI and CAI.

Hence no intake on mine because I am very far from convinced that I would see any gain. Sure bigger filters etc flow more air, but what good is that if the air is 10 degrees hotter? Very little, I suspect.

Interesting post.
I would be interested to compare the corksport intake and airbox to the OEM one, see if there is any difference.
The cs apparently draws air from the fender rather than from over the radiator, wonder if this would make much of a difference at slow speed/start-stop driving?


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Originally Posted by Lachlan

Interesting post.
I would be interested to compare the corksport intake and airbox to the OEM one, see if there is any difference.
The cs apparently draws air from the fender rather than from over the radiator, wonder if this would make much of a difference at slow speed/start-stop driving?


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Lachlan ,the corksport air box imo still needs to have the ducting from the front of car inserted into this box ,do not allow just the side opening for intake (insuffienct) .You would need to monitor both MAF flow,STFT and LTFT as these are critical to OEM ecu maps .

have bought a odb2 bluetooth reader, and will do a bit of testing of my own once it arrives :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Oldhead

Lachlan ,the corksport air box imo still needs to have the ducting from the front of car inserted into this box ,do not allow just the side opening for intake (insuffienct) .You would need to monitor both MAF flow,STFT and LTFT as these are critical to OEM ecu maps .

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I need to grab myself a dashhawk :)
And yeah, I wondered about ducting. It makes sense to use both areas to collect air, so once I can start monitoring temps and flow, I'll try hooking up the oem pipe as well to see if it makes a difference.

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Originally Posted by SarcasticOne

have bought a odb2 bluetooth reader, and will do a bit of testing of my own once it arrives :)

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Great idea No point doing mods if u cant see whats changed.:p

I'm doing it for the noise. Lol


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SRI with heatshield here.

Why?

Easy to install, easy to un-installl, looks good, for the induction NOISE and because when moving Im getting 3-4 degrees above ambient in summer and 2-3 degrees above ambient in winter. Yes in traffic those temps can go as high as 10-20 degrees above ambient but when you are in traffic you dont need to make 190KW lol.

I was without heatshield for a while and the change was dramatic in a negative way, if you are running a SRI a heatshield or box is a must!

Thanks for the you studies Oldhead :)

I'm curious, do you have power figures for these mods? Or just the inlet and ambient temps?

I'd guess to say that some of the mods may make more power at the same inlet temps (by removing the apparent restrictions) Also, you need an SRI/CAI for FMIC kits (For Gen 1 anyway) I think the airbox mod on the Gen 1 is a gimmick too.

Feeding cold (or ambient) air from 2 points (on a Gen 2) may actually create more issues. I'm not saying it will, just maybe.

Remember the days when the A9X Torana actually had a rear facing inlet bonnet scoop. Or what about the rear of the bonnet lifted actually draws air in on some cars, rather than letting hot air out.

Just some more food for thought.

Hi Troy thanks for input. No i do not have seperate power figures for each installation.
My endeavours are only about effeciency and effectiveness ,Yes restrictions are in OEM intakes and the hotter the intake the hotter the boost temp after going through turbo. Hence recommend good CAI or heatbox insulated. The data cant be wrong . We all know cold air is beneficial to turbos,
My installations with OEM box modified have been with TI and full 76mm silicone tubes from MAF housing to remove as much restrictions as poss.
We cant remove the MAF sender therefore the info stored via ecu MAP must match ,give or take a small percentage. Yes get your MAPs altered via piggy back or flash thats the only way. Trick or treat time.
Agreed u need SRI or CAI for FMIC ,but again the colder intake the better .
IMO the extra air access on gen 2 only allows better flow effeciency and access ,u cant squeeze more cubic meters of air into the pipes or box. The point is that the box adds as an insulator.
My points are that the engine bay has very minimal air flow and is contained in a small area ,Air con ,Radiator,sound deadening ,TMIC,ETC , its bloody hot in there.

L34 and A9X where direct natural asperated and filter/intake was directly below scoop, also they did not have the tightness of engine confinements and more air flow through grill ETC.. XW and XYGTHO bonnet shaker directly into holley carbys.

I have looked at the poss shimming rear bonnet brackets as a way of increasing air flow to engine bay ,good thought ,but not totally sure as i may need a wind tunnel :p
Part 2 then becomes the effeciency of TMIC or FMIC to cool these temps.

Have you tried the string/wool and sticky tape wind tunnel/air flow test?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTlth252SB4

Looks the goods ,thanks :rofl2:
Where do you find this shit ??????

what did i just watch??? am not sure what it's supposed to be, but for some reason i now feel stupider
once i get my ODB2 sensor, will do some SRI+airbox IAT logging of my own :)
also want to see what (if any) difference removing the front left plastic shroud that directs air into the tmic does

The discussion got me to thinking water-meth injection and that got me to wondering : Is there a reason it's injected after rather than before the turbo?
i.e. energy wasted cooling the turbo that could be cooling the charge?

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Originally Posted by Nexus

The discussion got me to thinking water-meth injection and that got me to wondering : Is there a reason it's injected after rather than before the turbo?
i.e. energy wasted cooling the turbo that could be cooling the charge?

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Saw some info ages ago where guys were injecting the water/meth before the turbo. Seems that this works very well, the spinning compressor wheel smashes the water droplets into an extremely fine mist... Downside being some measure of erosion on the leading edges of the compressor wheel...

Food for thought

Chris.

That'd be cavitation - like what happens to boat props.
Slowly erodes the leading edges, larger pieces over time - that's all going through the engine - then balance starts to go and sooner rather than later we have premature and catastrophic failure of the compressor wheel.

Yeah, better inject it after...

Intake air temp vs Restriction...