This thread uses some pictures and references to an original post by ďjrzy ms6Ē and "DynoBunny" on MSF

This was done on a 6 MPS, but should be fairly much the same for the 3 MPS.


When changing the intake, I noticed there was a transmission fluid on top of the gearbox, after some research, this is a common problem, but is also an easy fix. You donít have to take the gearbox out or anything and should be around 30 mins.

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I ordered my parts from Amayama, as it is hard to come by and cheaper, but takes AAAAGGGGGGEEEEEEESSSS to get here (slightly over a month); hyperlinks are below

  • Bearing Grease - have a jar of the stuff (Supercheap, Autobarn, Repco, Burson, etc)
  • Permatex ultra black - have several tubes (Supercheapauto, Autobarn, Repco, Burson, etc)

*Price were correct at the time and do not include freight.


  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • 10mm spanner (for battery)
  • 10mm Socket (for battery holder)
  • 12mm Socket
  • 13mm deep socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 16/17/18mm socket for transmount
  • 19mm deep socket
  • T25 torx driver
  • 8mm Hex Driver or fat drill bit
  • Hammer
  • 2 X Strips of Pine from Bunnings
  • Vice (optional, but make it easier)
  • Trolley Jack
  • Blade
  • Pick set
  • Rags


1. Support gearbox with jack, just enough to support the weight, not lift the car

2. Remove battery and battery tray (10mm socket and spanner)

3. Remove intake

4. Take off the shift link cables, you can pop one off with the needle nose pliers or a big flat head. The other one is attached to a bracket which has to come off anyways. Take out the two 12mm bolts holding the shift mechanism on (circled in red)

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The shorter bolt goes in the back:
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*NOTE: There is a clip/rubber that slides into the trans, make sure you keep this on.

5.Removing the transmission mount. MAKE SURE THE JACK IS SUPPORTING THE GEARBOX!!!!!

Start with the massive bolt and nut going through the mount, I have a 17mm bolt, but some people have an 16mm or 18mm. The rest of the bolts should be 14mm holding the bracket down. Remove them in this order:
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6. Take out the remaining three 12mm bolts that hold the shaft in

7. There is a 14mm bolt on the side of the gearbox, this is the guide pin for the shaft so it needs to come out to pull the assembly out:
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8. This takes a little bit of work, but you have to slide the entire shaft and wiggle it out.

9. Where the shaft sits in the gearbox, ensure you donít get anything in there, shove a rag in there. Clean up any of the old sealant with a blade

10. With the shaft out, pop it on something clean in your work area. Now remove the cotter pin. There has two sides; oneís bevelled, the other isnít. Get your T25 Torx bit and punch it out from this side:
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11. It will all come apart now, so you can slide the piece off the shaft and then remove the remove boot from the cover plate.

12. Here are all the pieces you need to replace. Here is the seal (circled in red) and the breather (circled in green):
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The bearing is on the other side of the seal


13. First take out the oil seal using your pick set, just be careful not to scratch the sides.

14. Then to take out your bearing, get your 2 pieces of wood to support the bracket off the ground, and use your 19mm deep socket with a hammer to tap the bearing out.

15. Turn the cover around and use the 8mm Hex bit (or fat drill piece, around 8mm) to punch to get the breather out

16. Make sure everything is very clean when you put the new bearing in. I applied some bearing grease to help the new one slide in. Get a wooden board, and hammer and slowly tap in the new bearing in a little and make sure itís straight. Once itís in as far as you can get it with the wooden board, use the 19mm to go the rest of the way. Turn it over and make sure youíre in all the way to the lip. Donít beat it in too hard or youíll damage it.

17. For the seal you can just use your fingers and push it in evenly. Again donít push it in too far, just past the edge.

18. Line up the new breather and put your 13mm deep socket over the vent, and lightly tap it in

19. Slide the cover back onto the shaft and attach the boot

20. If this piece came apart, itís no big deal, it just slides over it:

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21. Once you put the shaft in, ensure the cotter pin hole lines up
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22. To put the cotter pin back in, hammer it in from the bevelled side. Also the pin should have a slight taper. Put the smaller end in first. It should be just flush with the back side.
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23. Before putting everything back together, you have to reseal it with the Permatex Ultrablack. Make a small bead around the cover including the bolt holes.

24. Now you have to wriggle it back in (be careful with the gasket maker) and have it centred with the bearing in the gearbox.

25. Place the 12mm bolts in place, but donít tighten them yet, put back in the 14mm guide pin and tighten that up. Once thatís in, tighten the 12mm bolts in a star pattern to spread the sealant with even force/distribution. The sealant takes some time to set.

26. After that, put everything else back and you are done!! Congratulations, no more leaks!