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Thread: DBA cross-drilled/slotted rotors - pics, install, thoughts

  1. #1

    Default DBA cross-drilled/slotted rotors - pics, install, thoughts

    This is not an in-depth tutorial on how to replace your rotors. It's more a basic overview with some pics and impressions of my DBA rotors after having them for a few months.

    These Disc Brakes Australia (DBA) rotors were installed in August. They are the 4000XS Series (cross-drilled and slotted). They are a direct bolt-on replacement for the OEM rotors and are the same size.

    Part #: 42960XS (Front), 42961XS (Rear)

    I was originally going to purchase just the slotted rotors but none were available at the time. I was offered the XS for almost the same price so went for those. Here's what they look like straight out of the box:





    Installation
    Installation was straight forward. Brake calipers were removed (and painted), and after removing the OEM rotors the hub face was cleaned to remove rust scale. The hardest part was removing the original rotor from the hub. This has been explained by a guy on another forum so I'll just repeat here what he said (the photo shown is taken by him):

    "Now here comes the fun part. In order to remove the rotor, the screw holding the hub to the rotor need to come out. ["To remove the screws on the rotors, you need to use an impact driver" (Quote MX5RACER)]. If they do not come out easily, get the drill ready to drill out the screw heads. You really don’t have to replace these screws, the wheel hold the rotor on just fine. With the screws off, remove the rotor. If it won’t come off itself, use a bold in the threaded rotor hole, and screw it in until the rotor brakes free"




    After mounting one of the new DBA rotors loosely on the hub the gold color of the inner rotor didn't fit with the rest of the colour scheme of the car, especially the blue calipers. The gold paint was more obvious on the rear rotors. I'd seen a Liberty and MX-5 with the same DBA rotors who left them the original colour and it didn't look too good to me:




    So I decided to sand off the yellow and repaint it black. Here's some before and after shots:

    Original colour


    Painted Black



    I loved the polished look after the yellow paint came off (made the rotors look bigger) but after a few weeks it would have turned rusty and looked crap. So they were reluctantly painted black:




    Original vs new look before fitting:



    Here's the finished job:

    Before (caliper had just been cleaned prior to painting)


    After







    Impressions:
    Initially I was disappointed with the new DBAs. The most obvious loss compared to the old rotors was a reduced sensitivity in the brake pedal. I have to press the pedal more firmly with the new rotors. My original brakes were super-sensitive, to the point of annoyance in some cases, but i could live with them most of the time. So after losing this initial sensitivity after fitting the DBAs I was worried I had made a mistake. But after some driving I came to realise that the DBAs are a lot more progressive in their feel compared to the OEMs. With the OEMs it felt like braking was an all-or nothing affair, but this is not the case with the DBAs. So there's been a loss in sensitivity with initial or light braking, but the more progressive feel as you press harder on the anchors is a braking characteristic I much prefer.

    In terms of overall stopping power the DBAs might have a slight edge, but it really is hard to tell. I don't flog my car and haven't pushed it hard enough to cause brake fade with either the old or new rotors, so I don't know if the DBAs are more fade-resistant. To be honest I don't know if the rotor itself has much to do with brake fade, or whether it's more to do with pads and brake fluid overheating. However I feel more confident in braking with the DBAs compared to the OEMS because the progressive nature gives more control.

    One thing I've noticed concerns touching the brakes in order to cancel the cruise control. With the old rotors the smallest of brake taps would result in the car decelerating noticably; it was almost like the brakes were being over-assisted, especially at higher speed. With the DBAs this annoyance has disappeared.

    I have some mild brake squeal every now and then but it doesnt bother me that much. It mostly occurs when breaking from 20km/h or less. There is also a slight 'shhh' noise when you brake, as a result of the pad brushing over the slots and drills. This noise is amplified considerably if you brake alongside a concrete barrier or in a tunnel.

    It's interesting comparing the braking in my car to my dad's 6MPS. His brakeas are nowhere near as sensitive compared to my car with the original rotors (production tolerances maybe??). However after the install of the DBAs on my car, his brakes feel slightly more sensitive in comparison, but once again not as progressive as the DBAs.

    Overall I'm happy with the upgrade. The more progressive feel in the brake pedal is welcome, but a little more bite on initial braking wouldn't go astray. I'm guessing this lack of initial bite is down to the reduced surface area of the rotor created by the cross drills. If I was to do it all again I would have waited for the slotted rotors and passed on the cross-drilled/slotted ones that are now on the car. Sure, the slots combined with the drills looks cool, but the greater pad/rotor contact of the slotted rotors would most likely give that bit more initial bite that I am craving, while also keeping the progressive feel. So if you want the best of both worlds I'd recommend the slotted rotors.
    Last edited by nickows; 26-01-2010 at 10:16 PM.

  2. Default

    Wow Nick what a fantastic write up and great pics ... damn they look sexy dont they

  3. #3
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    Default

    very nice write up and impressions.
    ill be trying out some slotted/drilled rotors soon, so i hope the perform good

  4. #4
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    Thanks a lot for that Nicko.., very much appreciate your comprehensive review on this

  5. #5
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    Just keep an eye out for Stress Fracturing around the drilled points...

    when i wanted the Drilled and slotted look i went for Dimpled and Slotted...

    you get the look of the Cross Drilled but withou the risk of Stress fractures inneviatbly appearing over time..

  6. #6

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    are you using OEM pads? Hows the dust with the new Rotors?

  7. #7

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    they look sweet mate, just dont let me drive your car again

  8. #8
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    Great write up Nick and the painting is excellent

    I've recently installed the DBA 4000 slotted front rotors with Mintec pads and I think you've pretty much summed up the differences, though with the slotted (for me) the initial feel at soft braking is almost the same as stock, though my stock brakes were not extra sensitive - ie. a tap of brake pedal to disengage cruise control did not create any braking. The progressiveness increases as you apply braking force, overall they feel great and the dust from the Mintec pads is approx 25% less than stock pads. I also get some minor noise under braking next to a barrier, more like rapid clicking but you have to have the window down to hear it and then it's not loud and no other noises with the slotted!
    R36 - Just like an MPS6 except with a growly V6

  9. #9
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    Hey Nick, what did you use to clean you calipers before painting them?

  10. #10
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    Al I used a wire brush and rubbed all the dirt/dust off with that, then some degreaser, followed by water and meths to get the surface all clean prior to painting. After 6 months the paint is holding up very well. Also after applying the decals I sprayed them with heat resistant clear coat! Allow yourself plenty of uninterrupted time to prep and paint, did mine over the course of a day, got the kids to help for bit and then played with them in between coats of paint
    R36 - Just like an MPS6 except with a growly V6

  11. #11
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    I'm still trying to find a panel beater who will paint my calipers....

  12. #12
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    Great article Nick, be interested to see if you get heat cracks around the drillings. I ran cross-drilled slotted DBA on the VX SS and never saw a crack.

    Thanks for the pics - I was going to paint my calipers blue - been looking for quality paint. We can't have two white MPS6's with blue calipers in the Central West - may have to go boring old red or yellow.

  13. Default

    Thanks for the compliments everyone Have answered specific questions below

    Quote Originally Posted by Ranton View Post
    Just keep an eye out for Stress Fracturing around the drilled points...

    when i wanted the Drilled and slotted look i went for Dimpled and Slotted...

    you get the look of the Cross Drilled but withou the risk of Stress fractures inneviatbly appearing over time..
    Have been keeping an eye out for fractures but nothing so far. I'm assuming dimpled rotors are purely for aesthetics and dont help with cleaning/heat dissipation (in saying this I've read that cross drills do little for heat/cleaning anyways)

    Quote Originally Posted by mazda6mps View Post
    are you using OEM pads? Hows the dust with the new Rotors?
    I'm using QFM HPX pads; noticably less dust compared to stock

    Quote Originally Posted by Nirvandan View Post
    Hey Nick, what did you use to clean you calipers before painting them?
    I did pretty much the same prep as Shakes detailed below. Is painful but necessary if you want your paint to last.

    Quote Originally Posted by rd415 View Post
    Great article Nick, be interested to see if you get heat cracks around the drillings. I ran cross-drilled slotted DBA on the VX SS and never saw a crack.

    Thanks for the pics - I was going to paint my calipers blue - been looking for quality paint. We can't have two white MPS6's with blue calipers in the Central West - may have to go boring old red or yellow.
    Thanks Russell, it's good to know that DBA cross drilled rotors went well on your SS. I've heard about stress fractures on cross-drilled rotors but none specifically in regard to DBA.

    It's funny you mention our cars being a similar colour/black rims etc. I was in Cowra a few days back and saw a guy walking towards my car and smiling just as I parked it. When he saw me get out of the car he looked at me sort of funny and kept on walking. I think he thought it was you and was coming over for a chat

    I'd go yellow with the calipers Looks super-hot with white car/black rims:


  14. Default

    mine were cleaned back with a wire brush attachment on a drill ... thats turbobrian from OZM kindly cleaning them for me ... so didnt take me very long at all


  15. #15

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    awesome write up! Im getting some DBA 4000XS for my mps 3 in the next week or so for $230 each sounds good guys? any recomendations on brake pads? Ive been told EBC greenstuff?

    Cheers

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bankai View Post
    awesome write up! Im getting some DBA 4000XS for my mps 3 in the next week or so for $230 each sounds good guys? any recomendations on brake pads? Ive been told EBC greenstuff?

    Cheers
    Talk to GSL Steve they will help you out, just tell them what you'll be using the car for most. There are sweet as Pad's if your going to track the MPS but there a decent price but worth it. But if your drive yours just on the streets there might be better cheaper options.
    MPSX-treme

    2006 MPS Sports True Red - HP-F Mazedit tune + Other go fast bits - DGR Coilovers + Semi Slicks - Numerous Sure Motorsport Additions - Dashhawk

  17. #17
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    My DBA's were $198 each for the fronts from GSL Rallysport.

    Pads are all about what you want to do with them, how much noise and dust you can tolerate and how much you are willing to spend.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bakis View Post
    Talk to GSL Steve they will help you out, just tell them what you'll be using the car for most. There are sweet as Pad's if your going to track the MPS but there a decent price but worth it. But if your drive yours just on the streets there might be better cheaper options.
    whats GSL? or who lol

    well street/track for me hence wanting to get something a bit good and also im pretty hoonish so yeah haha

    Quote Originally Posted by Reedy View Post
    My DBA's were $198 each for the fronts from GSL Rallysport.

    Pads are all about what you want to do with them, how much noise and dust you can tolerate and how much you are willing to spend.

    did you get the same DBA? how are they any cracks? as i heard drilled disc have that problem

    Yeah dust im not fussed as i always clean my car and also have black wheels as for noise i dont want much as it frustrates me lol and money yeah dont wanna go over board someone told me that EBC greenstuff are about 150ish mark for the fronts

    Cheers guys
    FYS

  19. #19
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    Don't get drilled discs, they are for posers.

    These are the ones I got. DBA4000 Slotted



    From my own experience if you want quiet, low dust street performance, get a set of Remsa pads, I recently bought a full set front and back for $180.
    If you want something that works on the street but can handle some track work then get QFM A1RM's - These are excellent value about $270 for a full set
    If you want something for more competitive racing, get Project Mu HC
    For outright track performance that squeals like an absolute bastard then get Project Mu Club Racers - expensive, they cost me about $700 for a full set.

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Reedy View Post
    Don't get drilled discs, they are for posers.

    These are the ones I got. DBA4000 Slotted



    From my own experience if you want quiet, low dust street performance, get a set of Remsa pads, I recently bought a full set front and back for $180.
    If you want something that works on the street but can handle some track work then get QFM A1RM's - These are excellent value about $270 for a full set
    If you want something for more competitive racing, get Project Mu HC
    For outright track performance that squeals like an absolute bastard then get Project Mu Club Racers - expensive, they cost me about $700 for a full set.
    Thanks for that man

    Do you have the part number for your disc? looks like you got the facelift mps? they should be the same as the 06 one yeah?
    Ill get another quote from my mate

    Yeah i dont think ill be going to the track anytime soon again so most likely need the pads for street use

    Cheers
    FYS

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