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Thread: Ticking brakes

  1. #1

    Default Ticking brakes

    Hey guys,
    I'm starting to regret my recent project - MPS front caliper conversion onto a 3 Diesel.

    Parts i used: DBA 4000 slotted rotors (the original directional slotted, not the unidirectional T3 style), HEL stainless lines, TRW pads. Calipers were off a 07 MPS donor vehicle so i'd say the car did at least 100000km before it came to rest. They looked fairly old.

    I'm getting a constant ticking noise from alternating sides, sometimes both sides if i am going straight. Depending on which way i turn the wheel as i'm driving, it sounds like the steering wheel is a crossfader. The ticking noise is best described as sticking a strip of cardboard into a fan or bike wheel while it's spinning. Definitely not an engine noise.

    I fixed it *temporarily* with new brake lines (HEL). Turned out i must've f**ked factory brake lines when i was manouvering the caliper. I must've somehow left a permanent kink inside the hose but there seemed to be a lot of tension on the section from the shock to the caliper. The fluid seemed to be trapped and hence rotors were very hot even though i hadn't touched the brakes for 5mins. I replaced the hoses with HEL stainless lines. No more smelly hot rotors after a motorway run. I also used caliper lube on the pad 'ears' on both sides, compressed both pistons back to their home position.

    A few hundred km later both sides started making noise again.

    It seems i can hush the ticking by fiddling with the position of the hose and the centre 'pivot' on the strut. The hose seems to get stuck in the pivot but i am not convinced this is the sole problem. I'm thinking the pistons are sticky (odd but i guess old age?), brake lines are too short (odd.. they're meant to be made to spec), or it's just a characteristic of slotted rotors (deal with it and stop complaining, only real way to find out is to whack on a set of plain discs and check for uneven wear/temperatures)

    HELP!
    Last edited by juld0zer; 10-04-2012 at 05:16 PM.

  2. Default

    For shytes and giggles swap the rotors left and right. Those rotors aren't directional, see how that goes.

  3. #3

    Default

    HAHAH i wished it was that simple, but this is a set of the original 4000 slotted (not the T3 style). I've updated my original post.

    I'm starting to doubt that it's the clip/spring. It's a bloody strong spring and i find it hard to believe that it would lose tension or fail to hold the caliper at the correct position when i turn the wheel.

    surely i cant be the only one with this noise - there's definitely a few members on here with the same rotors.

    This might sound stupid, but would it be possible to have some air in the lines but still have a rock hard pedal?

  4. Default

    I assumed that's what you had, it is that simple, the older SL/SR design isn't technically directional. There's VERY few DBA rotors which are truly directional, and anything with Kangaroo Paw certainly isn't.

    The outside slots in no way shape or form dictate the rotor direction, and in fact most high end rotors have the slots going in a direction that DBA would call 'backwards'...

  5. #5

    Default

    oh yes, you mean the actual cooling fins in the centre of the rotor are non directional!
    i think it's actually the 6x6 slots that are making the ticking noise. no abnormal wear on the main slotted area..

    really starting to regret this whole upgrade. cost has blown out of proportion. noise is a huge nuisance and embarassment

  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by juld0zer View Post
    oh yes, you mean the actual cooling fins in the centre of the rotor are non directional!
    Correct, and that's the ONLY thing that determines rotor direction. Which way the outside slots go make no difference what so ever...
    i think it's actually the 6x6 slots that are making the ticking noise.
    So swap them left to right!
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  7. #7

    Default

    Problem seems to have subsided - had the calipers rebuilt and that made probably the biggest difference. The square cut seal was probably just a tad worn out, so much so that it was unable to completely retract the piston. The noise did return after a little while and persist for a day. Took calipers off, swapped out the rubber guide pin bushings and guide pins from my 7000km old SP25 spec calipers and the occurrence of the noise has been almost eliminated.
    What surprises me is how pitted the guide pins are, and these are off a caliper that has only been in service for 7000km/4 months!
    The rest of the difference probably is due to pad/rotor wear. Occasionally the noise does return but a hard stop is all it takes to hush them.
    Braking to a stop from 60kmh+ still has the high frequency tick until the car is slowed down to about 30kmh. That's acceptable by me.

    Seems like no one else on here had the same problem with their DBA 4000s or whatever brand of slotted rotor? Or maybe i just got very unlucky

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, QLD
    Posts
    458

    Default

    It is a weird one. Ticking is a noise I do not associate with braking application.

    If you were having issues with pistons not moving, I assume more squealling than anything in that case. Kinda like old worn pads at there end of their lives.

    Did you ever have a feel of all the slots by hand to see if any looked abnormal? Or had them machined to smooth them out? Which you shouldn't have to do cos they were new, but I'm throwing random things up as this is a random problem.

  9. #9

    Default

    There are some reports from the US with similar ticking noises when braking, using different brands of rotors and different cars. I dont really mind it because once the rotors are quite hot, they dont make the noise as much but it's a bit embarassing pulling up with a ticking noise. Not a lot of reports though.

    At first the pistons weren't retracting because i must've kinked or twisted the rubber brake lines. I could feel them drag - taking off needed more effort, needed more effort to keep the car moving but stopping was super sharp. I replaced the hoses and that reduced the unusually excessive heat but there was still a lot of heat for a car that's been rolling at 90kmh for 10mins without even a tap on the brakes. New seal kit brought things back to an temperature im more familiar with.

    The slots do feel a bit sharp and i did want to machine the rotors after they were dragged for a short while. I just lightly sanded the surfaces and rebedded. It's weird.. my theory is that it's the 6x6 'wiper' slots which are almost perpendicular to the centre that are causing the noise. When u brake hard, they cut into the pad and fill with dust therefore there is less air to get trapped as the pad goes over. Take off again and arrive at the next set of lights not far down and they will tick again as you slow down - maybe in that distance the slots have been cleared of some dust. Just a theory!

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