CorkSport

User Tag List

Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Hey everyone!

  1. #1
    liamO is offline New Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    2

    Default Hey everyone!

    Hey everyone, iím new to the mps scene (and turbo car scene in general) iím picking my gen 1 up this wednesday if everything goes to plan. itís a Ď07 with 90k kms in aurora blue. absolutely love the thing, is there anything i should know as far as first mods, things to look out for etc etc. thanks guys

  2. #2
    Nexus's Avatar
    Nexus is offline Administrator
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Geelong
    Age
    45
    Posts
    1,515
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Hi and welcome! There's a small number of things to be aware of for a 90000Km BK MPS 3 - the first one popping to mind is timing chain and VVT actuator. These had a weakness in BK 3 and GG 6 MPS models that requires the chain and VVT actuator to be replaced / upgraded as it begins to wear. That's commonly around 120-150,000K and becomes an urgent issue if you get the wear symptoms for a rattle noise at startup.

    Regarding first mods, The #1 popping to mind is a rear engine mount, although you should check to see if it's already got one. I would recommend the CPE stage 2 rear engine mount myself.

    Performance mods are plentiful, but often require tuning and dependencies such as an upgraded fuel pump. What to recommend depends on how far you are intending to take it. If you aren't upgrading the fuel pump I'd suggest safest option is to stay away from replacing the intake MAF housing or downpipe. I got good gains doing turbo inlet pipe, top mount intercooler and turbo manifold when I went down this route. Have a search around the forums, I'm sure you'll find plenty to pique your interest.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x8.5+44 SSR GTX01 - 235/40R18 Federal RS-RR - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold - Hypertech tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - PC based GPS and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 -225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - COBB inlet - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift.

  3. #3
    liamO is offline New Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Posts
    2

    Default

    thanks nexus! iím looking for a decent gain in horsepower but nothing too crazy maybe around the 320-350 whp range, thanks for your help mate iíll def check the engine mount asap!

  4. #4
    Nexus's Avatar
    Nexus is offline Administrator
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Geelong
    Age
    45
    Posts
    1,515
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    No worries. 320HP plus is in the fuel pump upgrade set, so performance wise you want a HPFP (high pressure fuel pump) upgrade and tuning tools (Cobb AP or versatune) before you push for those numbers.

  5. #5
    Crom is offline New Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Hi liamO

    Have you thought about suspension mods?

    One thing I've learned recently after a 10 or so year break from being a car enthusiast is the importance of not only shocks and springs, but also bushes, ball joints and general alignment and geometry issues.

    IMO the first thing anyone should do when buying an older car is to get a proper 4 wheel alignment to specs that will suit their driving style. In the process, you will learn what is and isn't adjustable, provided your mechanic actually knows what he is talking about. As always, research is key here.

    I'm not sure how adjustable stock BK 3's are but as an example, I discovered that the front cross camber and cross caster were both out by one degree on my mps 6 and neither are adjustable!

    I wanted to replace every moving part of my suspension anyway and luckily my new front upper control arms, complete with bushes and ball joints, sorted the camber issue nicely but caster was still out even with new lower control arms.

    This is important because if your front camber is even on both sides and your car is still pulling to the left or right then it is most likely a caster issue.

    Story time... Haha... I had to get a bit creative with my caster issue. My left caster angle was about +3 degrees and my right was about +4 degrees. This is bad because combined with the curve of the road my car was pulling too much to the left. If anything the goal should be to have slightly more caster on the left to counteract the road curve/crown.

    So the first step was to loosen the front sub frame bolts and rotate it as much as possible. I pushed the left side/wheel forward as much as possible to increase caster angle, and the right side back as much as possible to reduce caster angle.

    It worked quite well and moved the left front wheel 3mm forward, but it's still 3mm further back the right front wheel. Better than a 6mm total discrepancy though so I'm happy but cant get any more movement from the S/F and the car still pulled to the left.

    The next step was to think about adjustable bushes or ball joints. I liked the idea of fitting an adjustable left upper ball joint but what I did instead was I shifted the location of the front upper bushes.

    By moving the left upper bushes forward by 2-3mm with a cheap ebay bushing push/pull kit, I effectively moved the control arm and ball joint BACKWARD, further increasing caster angle, and still the car pulled to the left.

    I then moved the right upper bushes backwards 4mm, which moved the control arm and ball joint FORWARD, further decreasing the caster angle and FINALLY, the car now has only the slightest pull to the left!

    The last step which I have yet to do is go back to the left upper arm and move the bushes a bit more than the initial 2-3mm and I'll have to settle for whatever the result is unless I decide to go the adjustable ball joint route.

    Apologies for the overly deep post folks but I thought there might be others that could benefit from my caster story. I searched the interwebs long and hard and it seems that no one else has ever thought to move front upper bushes instead of using adjustable ball joints....
    Last edited by Crom; 24-11-2018 at 03:11 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •