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Thread: Gone over 10,000 km service by 6,000 Km's. potential issues?

  1. Default Gone over 10,000 km service by 6,000 Km's. potential issues?

    Hi due to unaffordability a haven't had my gen 1 mps serviced for 16000 Km's, do you know of any potential issues I might encounter? I have not driven the car hard last 6000kms.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    40
    Posts
    1,062

    Default

    Issues list is huge, service you car!!!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Brisbane Southside
    Posts
    527

    Default

    You will be causing all kinds of damage. Your oil has probably already started breaking down, loosing its lubricating abilities and being filled with a lot of crap, hence it goes black. This will cause damage to bearings in your motor, all journals and even the turbo's journals and even the seals.

    If you can't afford a full service, to save at least your motor and turbo, buy 5L of oil and a oil filter, this will not cost you more than $60, and change the oil mate. You are staring down a very bad path if you are not changing the oils.

    If you need help or more advise, PM me ok. GL
    Cheers

    Grumpy

    Tuned with
    By Alex...........

  4. Default

    Thanks for the advice, I think il just get a log book service with a standard garage for around $200. Tragic thing is I had a service booked in 3 weeks ago at Mazda, but when I got there I had no funds to pay for it due to other repayments, sad.

  5. #5

    Default

    While it is a good idea to service your car on schedule, the reality is that as long as you don't make a habit of it, you haven't done it any long-term harm.

    You could take a modern car from a show-room today and, barring the 1000km shakedown service, drive it around Australia for 15,000+ kilometres without putting a spanner near it, or opening the bonnet except to make sure fluids are up to capacity. It's even unlikely you'd use measurable quantities of oil. Modern cars take a huge amount of neglect, which I not to say that one should expose them to it routinely, however. Clean oil is the best service you can give an engine.

    I recall having to grease universal and suspension joints every 5000 miles or less..... :-(
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  6. #6

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    To be exact, you need 5.7L if you are changing along with the oil filter, 5.3L if no oil filter changed. Agreed with the above, just change it yourself (1/3 of a localgarage servicing cost) and get a proper service when u can afford it. But I also agreed that it should be still OK at the moment for the engine (just on the borderline)

  7. Default

    Thanks for the response it has given me some comfort, I will have to service it ASAP.

  8. Default

    Should I service the every 5000km now just to compensate for not serving it for the 16,000 km?

  9. #9

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    There is no reason to service at 5,000kms with modern full synthetic oils 10,000ks is fine. I personally wouldnt go over but it will be fine. Servicing at 5,000kms is a waste of good oil.

  10. #10

    Default

    Agree with mymps11 - and oil changes are like sleep. You can't "save up sleep credits". In the same way, changing oil more frequently is not going to repair a minor oversight and will not magically repair any sdamage that might have been done, which in your case is likely to be non-existents or unable to be measured.

    A friend of mine who lived out in the bush had an accident in his ancient HG Holden ute at around 180,000km. He was a timber-cutter and used to haul short timber props that he saved from the bush for his farm around in the back of the ute. The car was all one big dent and badly rusted. In its entire life he had never serviced it, and simply topped up the oil and water, never changing either. When he wrecked it I helped him pull it out of the swamp where it had finished up. I asked him if he wanted the motor, as that was all that might have been worth saving. It was a 186 HP motor, a heavy duty industrial block. I wanted it for my old Landrover 2A as it had a diesel in it that wouldn't pull the top off a rice pudding. I stripped his engine and found that the crank had been running in deep grooves carved through solidified sludge that had to be taken out with a paint scraper. I sent the block off for pickling and bored it to 186 +0.030" (= 192 cu.in) and had the crank taped only. I cleaned the rest up to surgical standards, put in new pistons to suit the new bore, alloy timing gears and bored out the timing gear oil feed. The oil pump just needed a clean and tizz up, as did all the ancillaries, carb and distributor, whose centrifugal weights had frozen in place. I put a different cam in to suit low-down torque requirements of off-road work, and of course, new crank bearing shells. But the engine as it came from the wreck, despite its decades of total neglect, was essentially absolutely undamaged. It did another 300,000km of often heavy work in sand dunes before I sold the Landrover.

    It turned out to be the best motor I ever had, until my current 4500 petrol 80 Series Cruiser. (Look on Carsales.com to see the kms on some of the 80 Series Cruisers there for sale!)
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  11. Default

    Wow what an awesome story, gives me hope and inspiration..thanks. Who would have thought a Holden engine would hold up so well?

  12. #12

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    Those 7-bearing GM Red Motors were among the best engines built for the time. In taxis they routinely ran over 1 million km.

    I forgot to add in my previous post that I estimated that after all the hard, dry, solid sludge build-up in that engine, literally kilos of it came out, the total oil capacity of the sump and engine may have been as little as 1.5 litres. Once the new motor was installed and in use on geological work in the Sandy and Gibson Deserts it was often at peak rpm and power going up sand dunes in low range, with both locking axles engaged and a decent load of survey gear, that engine never missed a beat, even operating in temperatures over 50C. The only issue I had which I recognized at the start was that the GM engine sat flatter in the engine bay, than the original motor, so it needed to have a new set of water lines to carry hot water from a point tapped into the rear of the head forward to the radiator and assist convection. I changed the radiator to a larger one take care of the greater amount of heat generated by the larger engine, and added a water-filled hollow front bumper and a thermo-fan. It all worked perfectly and the engine was smooth as silk, ran cool, and with all the extra power even enabled the addition of an overdrive, which doubled the original 4 gears to 8, an added benefit.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  13. Default

    Good stuff mate, I hope mazda make there engines as good as General Motors

  14. Default

    I was super lazy once... Just kept putting new oil in from the 1L every 5000km... still runs like a dream

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