
Opti-Coat 2.0 is currently on order from the manufacturer and arriving shortly.
We are accepting orders in advance and shipping out when the stock arrives. To secure yours now, purchase through the following link
Opti-Coat 2.0
NOTE: This product is not the professional Optimum Coating. It is a retail version designed for application by the amateur detailer.

Joel, what are the key differences between this and the professionally applied version?

There are two key differences.
1. The retail version is far easier to apply. It still does require someone with some background to detailing to keep out of trouble.
2. The retail version produces a thinner film than the professional version. The pro version is about 2 microns thick which is crazy thick for a coating. This means that the chances of removing it through general wear and tear are basically no chance at all.
I don't know what the thickness of the retail version is, but I'll find out in time. But being thinner, there "may" be a chance you'll remove it eventually through mechanical abrasion.
Hope that makes sense mate. Whether its the pro version or the retail version, you are still dealing with a product that I think is the best of the best.

No doubt there at all Joel. You haven't steered me wrong yet
So obviously the clear coat needs to be absolutely pristine before this goes on, which is where the detailing experience would come in. Am I right in assuming that this is not able to be applied over a surface that's had Amigo or any other polish applied to it (Ie a polish capable of hiding minor scratching etc)?
Ie it has to bond directly with the clear and not have anything at all between it?
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| 2XS SRI | H&R Lowered Springs | cpe 75 Duro Engine Mount | Whiteline Rear Swaybar | Moog "Problem Solver" Rear Endlinks | 3M Carbon Black Tint | Lakin Custom Plates | Prima Paint Protection | Paint Correction by Me![]()

How much is this stuff worth?
I've been told I should look after the paint of my car better by a detailer.
So I'm gonna wash it more than once a month, and am thinking of rubbing something on it to, as I'm told, 'protect it'.
Those who know me know this post isn't a joke...
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It's in the link Joel posted mate - $99.95
Jon, my advice would be to perhaps get it professionally detailed and polished, and then look at immediately (ie within an hour or two of the detail at most) applying something like Prima Paint protection product yourself
Provided you top up the protection with a spray of Hydro once a month, you should get around six months before needing to re-apply the paint protection.
It's quite low maintenance day to day and it'll be much more forgiving to do yourself than something like Opti-Coat 2.0
Or maybe you could whisper sweet nothings into Missy's ear and she can help you out![]()
| 2XS SRI | H&R Lowered Springs | cpe 75 Duro Engine Mount | Whiteline Rear Swaybar | Moog "Problem Solver" Rear Endlinks | 3M Carbon Black Tint | Lakin Custom Plates | Prima Paint Protection | Paint Correction by Me![]()


up to you mate, but in the long run you'll actually spend more time and effort continually re-polishing than you would with a longer lasting solution like paint protection (which sits on top of a polished surface)
A polished surface might last a couple of weeks before it goes again (depending on how the car is stored etc)

That's correct mate. No products like Amigo are suitable before hand. Pure polishes like Prima Swirl, Prima Finish, Optimum Hyper Polish/Compound are OK. But you need to wipe down with isopropyl alcohol to remove any polishing oils from the surface.
So basically, what you said is exactly right. It need to bond to the layers of paint. Whether that be clear coat or acrylic.

FYI I had the Optimum Opti coat professionally applied and 4 months on, it looks schmich! The dirt slides off and water beads so well!