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Thread: Forged K1 rods and Wisco pistons

  1. #1
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    Default Forged K1 rods and Wisco pistons

    Being bad again. next mods will be internal engine mods. K1 rods and Wisco pistons, cams, fully balanced crank, rods, pistons.. Im looking at increasing the RPM to 7500-8000rpm. This will happen ( all going well) after the barthurst cruz. I can get the rods and pistons to me for under $1000 at the moment. I will be doing all the install myself, will have to send the engine away to get it balanced. i can afford to have the car off the road by than as i 'may' have a 3rd car to get around in..


    Products | Custom Performance Engineering


    Any thoughts on this guys? as im starting to gather parts info and tech info now.. i have a far knowlage on how to rebuild engines, but not a lot of knowlage about these.. i have been reading about timing tools for this engine etc.. any info will be greatly appreciated
    Last edited by RedDjinn; 20-11-2010 at 09:15 AM.
    Many want Power not many hold it long.........

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by luke 3mps View Post
    Being bad again. next mods will be internal engine mods. K1 rods and Wisco pistons, cams, fully balanced crank, rods, pistons.. Im looking at increasing the RPM to 7500-8000rpm. This will happen ( all going well) after the barthurst cruz. I can get the rods and pistons to me for under $1000 at the moment. I will be doing all the install myself, will have to send the engine away to get it balanced. i can afford to have the car off the road by than as i 'may' have a 3rd car to get around in..

    K1 Rods Wiseco Piston MAZDA 3 DISI TURBO MAZDASPEED: eBay Motors (item 250707358906 end time Nov-05-10 09:26:11 PDT)

    Products | Custom Performance Engineering


    Any thoughts on this guys? as im starting to gather parts info and tech info now.. i have a far knowlage on how to rebuild engines, but not a lot of knowlage about these.. i have been reading about timing tools for this engine etc.. any info will be greatly appreciated
    Just checked them out, nice! go the oversize, that way all your tolerences after machining will be spot on!

    you will need a a heap of good measuring tools! The timing tools are essential, diamond washers I recommend for the cam sprokets!

    I dont like the single row timing chain design in these motors, 8000rpm scares me Luke! So many little things you will come across while your building an engine, dont waste your money if the part isn't right to start with
    Last edited by MPS2NV; 21-10-2010 at 08:30 PM.

  3. #3
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    awesome! glad to see someone doing it here so i can hopefully do the same............much later on though

  4. #4

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    then you can NOS it.

  5. #5
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    I will monitor this Luke, this was my plan for next year once out of warranty, I've only ever balance and blueprinted V8's all my life. The 4 should be good for 8000rpm , I use to rev the 351 to 8000rpm with a race cam grind for road use and yes I have owned fords but prefer Holdens

  6. #6

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    This will be interesting. Keep us up to speed on progress. Good luck. Is it (going to be) matched with upgraded induction, exhaust and turbo?

  7. #7
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    I have already got a 3' tbe, and bnr turbo. might later down the track go to a garrett 3076. the aim for me is not massive power i want to widen the power band more increase the rpm, to make use of each gear. with the way the car is now it just keeps 3rd gear breaking free but the power comes on 2500- 3000rpm than slowly goes over 5000rpm i still want it to pull at 2500rpm but i want the pull to last longer. if i start to push 240kw+ on road tyres it will be pointless to drive, couldnt use the power.. so i looking at 220-230kw but with a wider band/pull to 7500rpm maybe 8000rpm. if i have to change up turbo's i will, run lower boost..
    Many want Power not many hold it long.........

  8. #8

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    Sounds good. The BNR has piqued my interest. I'd definitely beef up the internals if going beyond where I'm at now.

    But given your "if i start to push 240kw+ on road tyres it will be pointless to drive" I reckon this is why sending it through FOUR wheels is better!! ;-)

    This is why I love the MPS6 anyway. Whether applying power to avoid a sudden hazard, skirting around obstructive minnows or seeing some presumptuous wally off at the lights, I love the way it doesn't matter how you put the power down, suddenly or in a smooth build-up, the 6 just points itself and goes like a giant hand just grabs and flings it, and gets the job done with no wheel-spin or drama, even in the wet.

    But I do find that one can be so preoccupied with making sure you don't run over that which you intend to overtake that it is easy to lose track of rpm building, so I've come to figure that both rpm and boost alerts are important.
    Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 22-10-2010 at 12:57 PM.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

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    The 3's do suprise with teh amount of grip they get, did me ... im tryn to take what the engine does good and improve what it doesnt, reliability and higher rpm power i feel needs to be looked at. SO in goes the rods/pistons and balancing

  10. #10

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    LUKE, I agree. Given the number of blow-ups reported, I think once one starts pushing these engines past reasonable margins of OEM design or intent, the best insurance is tougher components. I don't criticize the manufacturer for this at all. 90% of the cars perform exceedingly well without any issues. Even if a few stock engines come apart, it's the 10% of us "tweakers" that explore higher limits that are most exposed.

    It's interesting that the world is stressing over a few Toyota issues like stuck throttles and leaky brake fluid reservoirs, but we hear SFA about MPS blow-ups being the subject of recalls. If it was an endemic problem, then maybe there would be a recall. As it is, most folks seem to be living with a blow up as the consequence of enthusiasm. But maybe I'm wrong...
    Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 22-10-2010 at 03:04 PM.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  11. #11
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    Haha Luke, whats your misses saying about this one??

    I'm eyeing off the new Stage3 BNR's, judging by the US forums they look very promising. Those Mazdaspeed springs finally going in tomorrow too along with the fat cat motorsport bumpstops.

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    she doesnt know.. i will tell her later before i buy.. 'anyone got a spare bed when i do' she's is usaully pretty good if i talk to her about it, its war if i dont...

    good stuff look forward to the pics with the springs in
    Many want Power not many hold it long.........

  13. #13

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    From what I have read (So take with a grain of salt) the stock top end is good to around 7k rpm, better valve springs will see you to 7.5krpm, but to get to 8k rpm you need to look at a steel crank, as the stock one is too heavy for high speed rotation.

    You might also run into issues with the balance shaft system too, but not sure about that.

    You would definitely need better cams to make use of the extra rev range, but to get more top you will probably lose some down low, as in later boosting.

    Mainly because you will change the power characteristics from a midrange power band, to a more peakish power delivery.

    Think that makes sense lol.

    Good on you though for raising the bar on MPS performance
    Last edited by RadiantKnackers; 22-10-2010 at 05:45 PM.
    MPS is gone. Ghey Trail enabled....Not Happy. MPS 6 to come

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by LittleredMPS View Post
    From what I have read (So take with a grain of salt) the stock top end is good to around 7k rpm, better valve springs will see you to 7.5krpm, but to get to 8k rpm you need to look at a steel crank, as the stock one is too heavy for high speed rotation.

    You might also run into issues with the balance shaft system too, but not sure about that.

    You would definitely need better cams to make use of the extra rev range, but to get more top you will probably lose some down low, as in later boosting.

    Mainly because you will change the power characteristics from a midrange power band, to a more peakish power delivery.

    Think that makes sense lol.

    Good on you though for raising the bar on MPS performance
    Agree with u valve springs will need to be looked at. As for the crank hmm if the crank is heavier it will take more to turn, if it was a idle quick rev heavier crank would make it turn slower but if u have the force to turn it i think it will be ok, i feel 8000rpm is achievable if its balanced with ur rods and pistons. as for

    the turbo and boosting agreed, im going to try and find a happy medium with the one i have. i think with cams and vvt will aid me with the top end, if its still not wat i want i will go the garrett 3076 see how i go ( when i save a bit more $$ )

    im tryn to smooth the curve out so i hope that doesnt happen or can be tune out
    Many want Power not many hold it long.........

  15. #15
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    Have a look at the Cosworth bits for the 2.3 Duratec/MZR. Biased towards an N/A setup (i.e. no turbo) but some of their bits may also be of interest.

    Link here

  16. #16
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    I found some valve spring that tested hold up to 15000rpm. But there for the normal 2.0-2.3ltr will they fit the Mps?
    Last edited by RedDjinn; 23-10-2010 at 04:40 PM.

  17. #17
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    You get your top end with the 3076 and you will definately need a manifold to spool the puppy up asap and not lower comp ratio to retain low end power,you could prob leave your stock cams, I left the balance shatfs in to try and keep the power smooth and keep car plesent to cruise in (not sure that happened! ) My flywheel is lightend, I wanted to keep the charactoristics of the car the same but just bigger! Im heading to the path your aiming for Luke No big secrets in my engine

  18. #18
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    I was look at cosworth cam they say... Note: Camshafts listed are not compatible with Mazda variable cam timing feature... i have sent them a email to get more info, cuz i still want to keep it vvt.

    ---------- Post added at 06:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:16 PM ----------

    The thing i want to try to stay away from is that sudden PEAK power that shreads the tyres. want the power there but straightn the curve any advise guys how i can achive this?

  19. #19
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    keep the heavy flywheel, I think your turbo is perfect for what you want, you will have to comprimise on everything to acheive the desired result. You want to rev it so lightend and balanced is good but you dont want it to go silly, dont select the lightest flywheel out there, the bigger turbo wont help, alot of this can be tamed with your tuning while on the dyno, what you want is something that is efficiant, your have a few things already that will help you get the result, the other parts internally are for the security that the motor doest fly apart and can safely handle the strap on lol head work would see a consistant power deliver and gains all over and is cheap

  20. #20
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    After talking to Troy, i looked firther into K1 rods. if you want to look into them google search K1 rods check out some of the US sites
    k1 rods/wiseco pistons

    Im loooking into pauter or carilro rods ( if funds permit if i dont have the $$ i will have to go k1's). Im not saying k1's are bad for what i want, if im going to pull my engine out and rebuild it, maybe change later to run a more power or change setup i want something i dont have to change again.

    research and people here who help is a great tool thanks all .. keep oppinions coming guys more info the better
    Last edited by RedDjinn; 24-10-2010 at 07:55 AM.
    Many want Power not many hold it long.........

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