
Click in rail of driver's seat when going around a left hand corner. Gone now of its own accord. That's it in 39,000km! What are you guys doing to your cars?![]()
Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 01-12-2009 at 01:32 PM.

That reminds me of a funny story: I had this loud metallic ticking sound coming from the drivers seat every time I went round a corner. It got so annoying that I pulled the seat out (it weighs about 25kg btw) and cleaned the mechanisms and went right through it with silicone lube.
While the seat was out I looked at the amp that's bolted to the floor under the seat and thought yeah why not pull it out and give it a clean also.
Turned out to be a good decision because I discovered a 5 cent piece that had found its way into the amp enclosure and become trapped. It was sliding around on the carpet inside there causing the tapping noise every time it hit the enclosure.
Problem solved and as a bonus the electric seat got a service.
FOR SALE

Mal is alive!!!!
...we are saved...rejoice
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Hi all,
Don't know if anyone else has come across this. The leather arm rest in the middle of the back seat is very "crinkled" in comparison with the rest of the leather in the car. Mazda have agreed to replace it under warranty. Nice
Murch
*** sorry just realised this is the MPS6 section (I know, damn 3 drivers)

My car just back from 40,000km service. As noted in another posting, Mazda volunteered a warranty replacement item and have ordered the part; a failed bearing in the sinuous belt tensioner idler pulley.
It's producing an irritating but entirely driveable rattle, the source of my only complaint on booking in, especially when the air-con is turned on as it increases the load on the bearing.
I still have the original clutch. So far it seems fine. I'm not hard on clutches anyway and don't mind the sudden uptake on this one.
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV;Dashhawk;Prosport Boost Guage;Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

I've just had the number 3 (RH) engine mount replaced on my 6 MPS (2006 model) after 91000 km. I was getting a clunk on gear changes when the engine was cold. I reported this to the dealer at the 90K service and asked them to check the engine mounts. Of course they told me the engine mounts were OK.
I left the car in overnight so that they could be there when it was operated when cold and after a lap of the dealership the problem was acknowledged and they had the new mount in before lunchtime.
According to a friend who works at a dealership, collapsing of the RH hydraulic engine mount is a common problem.

Nice one Paul. I have the problem also. Dealer has said it's normal thus far. Will keep on to it and if gets worse then will go back in.
Thanks for the post mate. Helpful

Thanks Paul, that is good information. I'm fitting the CP-e rear mount next week, so will check the RH mount too![]()

Clutch replaced - 38000.
Turbo replaced - 50000 (excessive bearing play)
Tailshaft replaced - 51000 (split boot)
Turbo and tailshaft were replaced after warranty expiry. Thanks to Rolfe Mazda Belconnen and Mazda HQ for covering the cost.
nissanman thanked for this post

Clutch just after I bought it.
Leather back seat squab (whole base of seat complete) - small split in leather from stitching - hardly noticeable. Thank God for a good dealer (John Davis Motors Orange NSW) - no hassle replacement.
Radiator cap leaking occassionally (small blobs of green slime around cap and on hoses) - new cap leaked also - noticed recently that the rubber seal in the cap is not on centre. Pushed seal into centre and carefully fitted cap - NO MORE LEAKS
Both A pillar inner plastic covers - damaged by windscreen fitter. Obriens Glass paid John Davis to fit new ones. Took a while as dealer kept getting Left hand part in sealed package with RH part number.
Coming up = a slight weep from timing case oil seal (not bad enough to replace). Tore LH rear black lower bumper panel off on a gutter just after I got the car (broke clips) - lack of clips holding it in place it is starting to warp and bend away from bumper.