Hi and welcome to the growing tide of MPS6'ers.
My ideas which are the 3 most basic rules, often forgotten:
1. Don't modify for noise only - it's a waste of money and attracts unwanted attention.
2. I feel much the same about adding daft cosmetic stuff like shark fin antennae too, but that's just me. Leave it for later, at least. Looks don't add horsepower.
3. Modify for power, efficiency and driveability. By the latter I mean you may not want your car to ride like a board and be highly strung. The MPS6 is a high performance 4 door long-range cruiser (a GT, if you will), not a street light dragster.
- If you plan to modify for lots of power, then plan on modifying for stopping and handling too, although MPS6 brakes are among the best so I'd put stiffening up the handling before the brakes in this case.
- Primary bolt-on mods that can be cheaply done by yourself if you have a few mechanical molecules in you DNA are:
- Get rid of the stock downpipe (DP). Go for 3" and less cat restriction. Pick a DP with a flange that enables fitting a larger output turbo in future, even if you never go down that path. It will save a fiddle later.
- Get rid of the stock turbo inlet pipe and replace with an SRI and pod filter. Forget CAI's, they are a fiddle and create more problems than solutions, clutter up the engine bay with long plumbing to no advantage that sometimes even adds heat rather than eliminates it. I've proven it from intake temp measurements.
- Go for an ECU piggyback or flash. I'm not up to date with current items but MPS Garage will offer some advice - or ask here.
- Add a boost guage if you are playing with boost levels above stock.
- Consider a good TMIC or FMIC at this point, or earlier if you want to save yourself the earlier TIP/SRI step, as you should get a new larger diameter cleaner flowing TIP with it.
- A tuneable BOV may be an item at this point, depending on how much air you have moving around. Don't get one for noise only (see above comment) but to keep your turbo on-song.
- Consider after cat exhaust mods but keep the noise down, (see above comment). Note: SS 3" drones like crazy and will drive you mad.
- Front suspension tower braces - an easy bolt-on.
- Engine mounts don't figure high on my list, subject to power output or early failures, but you could add them at this point.
- Stronger rear diff mount if yours is suspect or depending on power output. I still have my original at 60,000km but I don't launch hard.
- Short throw gearshift is often held to be a good mod and could be done at any time. I'm still looking but not yet done as I have found most to be suspect or have shortcomings in one regard or another.
- Consider tyres. The stock RE050's ride like boards and tram line. There is better stuff out there - and cheaper.
- All I have suggested will improve power and economy with minor handling tweaks but nothing major.
- After this, look at members signatures for cues and ideas, especially re lowering and camber or caster mods.
BTW, if you plan on driving at all enthusiastically, plan to get a good electronic countermeasures system. Often overlooked but it will save your licence and your car. Get the best you can afford. Read the tests.
Hope this helps. It may not sync with others priorities, but I won't be far out. Cheers. :-)
Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 07-11-2011 at 11:49 AM.
CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV;Dashhawk;Prosport Boost Guage;Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18
Lego Technician
Originally Posted by Doug_MPS6
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