
After some 12 mths of testing and data collection i have finally reached a conclusion and no doubt this subject will create debate.
Gen 2 MPS with many modifications.
Dashawk used as reference for data.
Heat as we all understand especially here in Qld does effect HP and specifically loss of and It is crucial to have IAT at the lowest temp possible as the Maf info is read via ECU and the timing advance is directly effected by this info.
Std engine temp @ operating temp and at 80klms hr 187F.
" " " " " ' 60Klms 187F
" " " " " 100klms 187F
Note above temps would rise very quickly once in normal traffic ,as far as 212F.All data days Ambient temps of approx 86F to 90F.
SRI versus OEM std box and OEM modified box.
2 seperate SRI,s from diff manufacturers with and without heatshields.
1st MZR Sri no heatshield @60, 80,100klms hr found to constantly read IAT,s at or about 10 to12 degrees hotter than ambient.Once in traffic these IAT,s very quickly could easily climb to 20 to 35 degrees hotter than ambient.Slow to drop once cruising.
2nd MZR Sri Plus heatshield ,supplied by 2XS and insulated @60,80,100klms hr.The IAT,s where constantly 2 to 3degrees hotter than ambient. Traffic conditions would create increases thou not as much as above and would lower very quickly once cruising .
3rd OEM box with KN filter SU silicone intake hose and 2 * 63mm holes installed @60,80,100kls hr . The IAT,s where constantly 1 to 2 degrees hotter than ambient. Traffic conditions would create similar increases to no 2 instalation.
4th CPE ex nano no heatshield with full silicone intake hose and TI pipe @ 60,80,100klms hr . The IAT,s where constantly 10 degrees hotter than ambient.Traffic conditions could see increases up to 25 degrees above and where slow to recover.
No tests where done with no 4 and heatshield
All tests done with original cold air pipes from front of car still in place to direct outside flow to engine bay. Where heatshields or Oem box in place this ducting was fully installed .
Conclusion .Minimal air flow to engine bay as well as going through hot radiator .We are spending good money for HP increases and engine effeiciency only to loose out through effectiveness Use a good quality CAI as prefered option or at least an insulated air box enclosure for your SRI.
Hope this helps in your endeavours.
This correlates well with my observations of the OEM airbox IAT...Generally 1-3 degrees C above ambient when moving.
I'd come to the conclusion that so-called "CAI" aren't really cold air at all unless you really focus on where the filter is placed and how air is ducted to it.
And then why would I fit one for a pitiful 2 degree C in temperature drop. I mean the coldest air it can ingest is ambient temperature.
Obviously there's more than IAT to consider when looking at modding the intake, but certainly the "cold" in "cold air intake" is a bit of a misnomer.
SRI for obvious reasons are going to be much higher IAT, as the with and without heatshield tests show.
Which left me wondering why I would want an intake other than the OEM airbox when I can fit a K+N, make some small adjustments to the airbox and have it flowing the coolest possible air at similar flow rates to SRI and CAI.
Hence no intake on mine because I am very far from convinced that I would see any gain. Sure bigger filters etc flow more air, but what good is that if the air is 10 degrees hotter? Very little, I suspect.
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Interesting post.
I would be interested to compare the corksport intake and airbox to the OEM one, see if there is any difference.
The cs apparently draws air from the fender rather than from over the radiator, wonder if this would make much of a difference at slow speed/start-stop driving?
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have bought a odb2 bluetooth reader, and will do a bit of testing of my own once it arrives![]()
I need to grab myself a dashhawk
And yeah, I wondered about ducting. It makes sense to use both areas to collect air, so once I can start monitoring temps and flow, I'll try hooking up the oem pipe as well to see if it makes a difference.
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I'm doing it for the noise. Lol
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SRI with heatshield here.
Why?
Easy to install, easy to un-installl, looks good, for the induction NOISE and because when moving Im getting 3-4 degrees above ambient in summer and 2-3 degrees above ambient in winter. Yes in traffic those temps can go as high as 10-20 degrees above ambient but when you are in traffic you dont need to make 190KW lol.
I was without heatshield for a while and the change was dramatic in a negative way, if you are running a SRI a heatshield or box is a must!
Thanks for the you studies Oldhead![]()
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I'm curious, do you have power figures for these mods? Or just the inlet and ambient temps?
I'd guess to say that some of the mods may make more power at the same inlet temps (by removing the apparent restrictions) Also, you need an SRI/CAI for FMIC kits (For Gen 1 anyway) I think the airbox mod on the Gen 1 is a gimmick too.
Feeding cold (or ambient) air from 2 points (on a Gen 2) may actually create more issues. I'm not saying it will, just maybe.
Remember the days when the A9X Torana actually had a rear facing inlet bonnet scoop. Or what about the rear of the bonnet lifted actually draws air in on some cars, rather than letting hot air out.
Just some more food for thought.
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