
Hi Troy thanks for input. No i do not have seperate power figures for each installation.
My endeavours are only about effeciency and effectiveness ,Yes restrictions are in OEM intakes and the hotter the intake the hotter the boost temp after going through turbo. Hence recommend good CAI or heatbox insulated. The data cant be wrong . We all know cold air is beneficial to turbos,
My installations with OEM box modified have been with TI and full 76mm silicone tubes from MAF housing to remove as much restrictions as poss.
We cant remove the MAF sender therefore the info stored via ecu MAP must match ,give or take a small percentage. Yes get your MAPs altered via piggy back or flash thats the only way. Trick or treat time.
Agreed u need SRI or CAI for FMIC ,but again the colder intake the better .
IMO the extra air access on gen 2 only allows better flow effeciency and access ,u cant squeeze more cubic meters of air into the pipes or box. The point is that the box adds as an insulator.
My points are that the engine bay has very minimal air flow and is contained in a small area ,Air con ,Radiator,sound deadening ,TMIC,ETC , its bloody hot in there.
L34 and A9X where direct natural asperated and filter/intake was directly below scoop, also they did not have the tightness of engine confinements and more air flow through grill ETC.. XW and XYGTHO bonnet shaker directly into holley carbys.
I have looked at the poss shimming rear bonnet brackets as a way of increasing air flow to engine bay ,good thought ,but not totally sure as i may need a wind tunnel
Part 2 then becomes the effeciency of TMIC or FMIC to cool these temps.
2XS thanked for this post

Have you tried the string/wool and sticky tape wind tunnel/air flow test?

Looks the goods ,thanks
Where do you find this shit ??????

what did i just watch??? am not sure what it's supposed to be, but for some reason i now feel stupider
once i get my ODB2 sensor, will do some SRI+airbox IAT logging of my own
also want to see what (if any) difference removing the front left plastic shroud that directs air into the tmic does
The discussion got me to thinking water-meth injection and that got me to wondering : Is there a reason it's injected after rather than before the turbo?
i.e. energy wasted cooling the turbo that could be cooling the charge?

Saw some info ages ago where guys were injecting the water/meth before the turbo. Seems that this works very well, the spinning compressor wheel smashes the water droplets into an extremely fine mist... Downside being some measure of erosion on the leading edges of the compressor wheel...
Food for thought
Chris.
'05 MPS 6, Liquid Silver Metallic, Leather, Sunroof.
DashHawk, TurboSmart Dualport BOV, Exedy Sport Tuff HD clutch, ROH Mantis 18*7.5+45, Corksport SS Braided Clutch Line, COBB SF Intake and TIP.
Coming soon: 2XS SSP, CPe REM.
Growing old is compulsory... Growing up is optional...
That'd be cavitation - like what happens to boat props.
Slowly erodes the leading edges, larger pieces over time - that's all going through the engine - then balance starts to go and sooner rather than later we have premature and catastrophic failure of the compressor wheel.
Yeah, better inject it after...

Intake air temp vs Restriction...