I HATE heat shielding. MPS 6

[tomo89aus]

Today and tomorrow I'm replacing my turbo as its been plastering the intercooler with oil.
I have a second hand K04 from eBay that will get me by until I can get a BNR S3.

Anyway I was quite optimistic about the job; but having spent almost 3 hours just removing heat shielding I'm now in a rather bad mood about it!
I understand the need for heat shielding but Mazda thought it was a great idea to put all of the nuts and bolts holding it on, in extremely hard to access spots

I just about rounded one 8mm bolt on the underside of the manifold heat shield, in the end I had to use multi-grips to get the bastard out.

** end of rant **

All of the photos I'd seen of turbo removals didn't have that much shielding, I guess because LHD cars have the brake and clutch cylinders over the other side away from the heat.

[tomo89aus]

405803_10150443031533016_647463015_8722863_317153839_n.jpg
Here's a pic of my progress today, pretty much ready to remove the DP and manifold.
Note the black oil on the compressor outlet of the turbo!

[2XS]

My tip(s)...............

Spray everything with CRC (WD40 etc)
Allow to penetrate.
Crack the nut/bolt by tightening it first, then remove the nut/bolt.
Always try to use 6 pointed sockets or ring spanners for cracking nuts/bolts.
Open end spanners and 12 point sockets will always lead to trouble.

[Adriano]

My tip(s)...............

Always try to use 6 pointed sockets or ring spanners for cracking nuts/bolts.
Open end spanners and 12 point sockets will always lead to trouble.

Great advice 2XS!! I didnt even think about 12 point sockets having greater a chance of rounding shoulders.

Hope the install goes well!!

[tomo89aus]

Thanks for the tips

I've soaked everything in penetrene and I'll spray some Inox (similar to WD40) on there tomorrow as well.

I have to do this all over again when I get the BNR turbo...FML

[2XS]

Thanks for the tips

I've soaked everything in penetrene and I'll spray some Inox (similar to WD40) on there tomorrow as well.

I have to do this all over again when I get the BNR turbo...FML

It will be easier 2nd time round.
You'll know where all the bolts are, plus, they shouldn't be as tight.

I could change a turbo with my eyes closed, I've done that many

[SarcasticOne]

this seems mildly appropriate:

How-To: MS6 DP

Tools needed:
Air tools make life MUCH easier
Basic socket set
Extensions
U-Joints
Beer

1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove TMIC (if necessary)
3. Remove heat shields
4. Lift front end as high as possible. Use e-brake & chocks behind rear wheels. Place jack stands in secure location under frame rail.
5. Remove upper and lower O2 Sensors...Carefully.
6. Unbolt DP from CBE. Disconnect 2nd Cat to ease removing DP.
7. Unbolt DP from turbo.
8. Curse Mazda for their stupid 5 bolt flange.
9. Expletives. Blood.
10. Swig beer.
11. Remove DP
12. Ice cold beer
13. Finangle new DP into place. Try not to damage anything in your engine bay in frustration.
14. Bolt DP to turbo.
15. Swig beer. Curse Mazda's 5 bolt again.
16. Bolt DP to CBE
17. Install heat shields, TMIC (if you haven't upgraded to a real IC yet), battery.
18. Ice cold beer. Say either "ehh, wasn't too bad" or "Fcuk you Mazda!"

The Official Downpipe Thread - Mazdaspeed Forums

[2XS]

It's not that bad.
The 5 bolt design is actually quite neat.
They allow access to all the bolts from the top of the engine bay.
It's some of the aftermarket DPs that cause issues when refitting.

[tomo89aus]

Ok well the turbo is out. No major dramas just a lot of swearing really.
I'm gonna take a break for a few hours then go and clean everything up (coolant, oil, etc...).

I'll also re-organise all the tools and bolts, etc... (my brother just threw things everywhere... was not good for my OCD)

Pics:
388482_10150444430858016_647463015_8728613_990692786_n.jpg390259_10150444429243016_647463015_8728611_1118445529_n.jpg389988_10150444458418016_647463015_8728692_2122018820_n.jpg

[tomo89aus]

How much of the heat shielding can I leave off?
I was thinking of just putting the manifold shielding back on as well as the shields around the brake cylinder, etc...