Hi Guys,
Got a fmic in was going to install it myself this weekend still not sure though wondering anyone in melb installed a fmic at a shop?
i know cain installed it himself maybe ill attempt it
Cheers
Steve
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Hi Guys,
Got a fmic in was going to install it myself this weekend still not sure though wondering anyone in melb installed a fmic at a shop?
i know cain installed it himself maybe ill attempt it
Cheers
Steve
Depending on the kit, and you level of mechanical competence, its worth doing yourself, but my advice is to give yourself an entire day, just in case things aren't quite going to plan, you don't want to rush things, oh and get yourself a good socket set, and a set of deep sockets, this is invaluable for the t-bolt clamps.
I have installed 2 different kits, and the better the kit the easier the install, i.e I did a cp-e fmic kit by myself, which included relocating radiator hoses & power steering cooler in about 5-6 hrs, I helped with another kit, so yes 2 of us, and it took about 6+ hrs, and the aforementioned kit didnt require any radiator or power steering work.
yeah i fitted my PG fmic kit, um took a bit of time but was going slow with a friend who hadn't worked on cars before.
replied to your pm Steve and ill confirm tonight what the go is.
but do it yourself, makes it easier if a pipe decides to pop off, you wont have to rely on a shop and can fix it yourself!! specially if your up in Winton or driving back from there
yeah thanks for the info usally do diys no probs just saw the manual and went uhhh... but it does seem pretty straight foward see how i go this weekend lols
I did the CS_FMIC unit in a day of actual work but the front was off the car for a few days while I did other unrelated things. MATT's suggestion of long sockets is dead on. I bought myself a set as soon as I realized my standard units would bottom out as you tighten the nuts on the T-bolts. Tweezing out the bits of plastic shrouding that required Dremeling out took time to keep it looking tidy, and the piping was a tight fit so I installed ant-chafe buffers throughout too. I also sat my FMIC on a soft rubber insertion bed to stop vibration and chafe. take whatever time it takes and don't rush it. It's worth getting it right first off.
Hey guys,
thanks to cain and a few of my mates we done the install everyone seems orrite and tight and on but my car isnt starting atm because the boost vavle/hose is not connected to the bov because its too short cant go buy one cuz we just finished got the engine mount in also and a turbo inlet and short ram.
so done quite a bit but car not starting it starts then dies after 5 secs or so im going to replace the hose tommorow with a longer one so hopfully that sorts it out fingers crossed if anything else you guys think it is let me know
we also installed a boost cut killer on the map sensor.
Cheers Steven
does it start and run without the boost cut killer?
no probs steve! just shout out if you need my dash hawk for CEL or to monitor boost - i actually should have left it with you ah well just let me know tomorrow if you need it
I don't think it would be the boost hose.
I think it may be another issue. This sort of thing is why I suggest don't do 2 many mods at once.
Pretty much what I was alluding to :)Quote:
Originally Posted by 2XS
well process of elimantion now.......first would be to get a boost hose as thats not even connected at all so thats the obvious part thats not how it was
the Corksport FMIC kit includes the boost cut killer and TIP as part of the kit so in a way we havent done a bunch of mods if these were part of the install...................:shrug:
true true to all things but yeah its all really lots of mods but one kit o_O so yeah see how i go tommorow fingers crossed its just that damn hose!!!
ok some good news replaced some bits and pieces tighten up bolts and mucked around more car starts!!!! but does not go above 3k rpm so im guessing its not getting boost properly!!
i think it could be the boost cut killer that came with the car that we installed on the MAP sensor
or
the OEM boost controller thing with the 2 nipples one for the actuator and one onto the turbo inlet we broke the nipple for the turbo inlet but fixed it up with some glue... (i know cheap fix ) but yeah mazda dont have
that part for 4 weeks i think its this because either the glue blocked the hole for it or its just stuffed because of the nipple being broke before
what you guys think?
i was thinking of getting a after market boost controller to see if that fixes it if not its the boost cut killer or somthing else
Cheers
4 weeks :( damn
some good news!!
cars up and running only running 7 psi though... lower much much lower then stock for some strange reason i believe its the nipple we broke on from the oem boost controller solinoid so im gonna get a bleed valve and pump up the boost again and let you know
how i go!!
If you broke the nipple and glued it back on, I'd say this is the problem.
Maybe you could try cleaning the glue from inside the stock boost controller.
bummer, heard that this is a common mistake too. :(
im guessing you had the maf disconnected to start with
and now your just running off the wastegate spring pressure which is 8 psi from memory
get yourself a GOOD MBC or EBC and youll be laughing
Doc
steve's muscles broke the nipple :p but yeah an MBC will be good for later so you can get a big turbo :2thumb:
thanks for the info guys appreciate it
mbc - manual boost controller - bleed valve?
im pretty sure thats what it is if so im getting one this weekend hopfully if i can get my hands on one and will be seeing you kain to get the boost adjusted because i dont have a gauge!! ahaha