Sorry guys for the nooby question, but what is an ATR?
Sorry guys for the nooby question, but what is an ATR?
ATR = Access Tuner Race
Basically explanation: a program that allows you to do custom tuning to maps that you can load back on using an Access Port.
Cheers Smokey
@rayd
thanks for the instructions, mate.
just did it now - only thing is after you select 'preferences' the P0401 code (and all others) is under the DTCs (Base) tab.
Well took it for a spin and got a CEL straight away lol, dashhawk cleared it but it just keep re-appearing. It's a great mod if you were considering the block off valve since you get to experience it without spending the money and its easily reversable. So far noticed the general BAT's are lower 10% approx and also noticed that on WOT runs the BAT's don't increase. Previously i've noticed that for example on a 12 degree night Bat's would start at about 22, then reach 27-28 by the end of the run. Tried this tonight and stayed at original temp .
Only negative is that the CEL is always on even with dashhawk so the only way to clear it permanently is with the ATR via the AP
MPSX-treme
2006 MPS Sports True Red - HP-F Mazedit tune + Other go fast bits - DGR Coilovers + Semi Slicks - Numerous Sure Motorsport Additions - Dashhawk
Crap - so after I plug in AP, load my selected map into ATR - save it, I then have to open up standard Accesport software and load it into the AP.
Missed that last step. Anyway, unplugged it, waiting for CEL. Will cancel codes later.
EDIT: so i unplugged it, went for a drive but no CEL - so checked the thread and remembered i needed to turn the key to 'ON' and wait 15 secs before unplugging, so i did that - but no CEL.
So @rayd, do i need to do the key 'ON' - 15 secs - unplug - when the car is dead cold? Does it make a difference if i do it when it is warm, ie. the valve is closed for cold start and then opens once at operating temp?
Last edited by SMOKEY; 25-07-2012 at 02:37 PM.
Hmm, I havent got a cel since i removed the pipe and blocked it off. Supposably they are random, maybe ill get one after a few thousand kms. I did take the whole egr unit off and cleaned the inside out. The top bit was a bit stuck which can in turn generate a CEL.
Maybe disconnecting the plug triggers a cel straight away? I dunno.
Dw i also didnt get a CEL, but then again my temps havent decreased either :S hrm......and also started hearing clicking in the engine?
saw BAT at 158F once i stopped the car. cruising was still in the 110F mark.
I guess my concern is how do I know if it is effectively shut - as opposed to disconnected and stuck in the open position?
the default position is closed, and the ECU occasionally opens the gate to allow the exhaust to recirc back into intake manifold.
a EGR blockoff kit costs ~$20 and if you are ordering something from the states etc, it's not going to add much/anything to your shipping costs...
'05 6 MPS | BNR S3 | JBR 3.5" Intake | Corksport Airbox | CP-E 3.25" TMIC | M2 DP | CP-E CBE | CP-E/TT Diff Mounts | Autotech HPFP Internals | JBR REM, PMM, TMM | SURE Shortcut | SURE Countershift | SURE Anchors | Denso ITV22s | JBR TIGs | EGR Delete | Coolant Bypass | PTP Inj Seals | MD OCC | H&R Springs | Bilstein B8 Shocks | Car-LED Tails | Badgeless Grille | 6000k HIDs | OZ Ultraleggera 18x8 +48
So if defaut position is closed, why do we need to turn key to 'on' and wait 15 seconds? Wouldn't we just unplug the bugger - clear the CEL - and be done with it?I thought that process must have been because when ECU is shut down, EGR must have be in open position and that 15 seconds is necessary for the ECU to switch on, run it's checks, then activate the EGR valve to close?
I understand it's only $20 for a delete kit, but IMO there is absoloutely no advantage to a block off plate that isn't outweighed by this mod - it's quick, it's free, it's reversible, and it's semi legal (if you get pulled over by EPA, just say a mechanic must have forgot to plug it back in - but try explain a blanking pate on an emissions control unit, a cop on a bad day will bend you over for it, it's equivalent of running no charcoal cannister or VTA catch can).
considering where it's located, the plate is hard to see...
also, not sure what triggers the command for the EGR to open, but by unplugging the cable, when the ECU sends the "open" command to the EGR, it doesnt get a "yup, done" in return, which is what triggers the CEL.
as such, it's going to come back unless you suppress the CEL with software, and even then, it doesnt stop it appearing on the ECU, just stops it illuminating the CEL light on dashboard.
Last edited by SarcasticOne; 25-07-2012 at 06:49 PM.
I've got ATR I can cancel the code.
Hmm....
ATR just sets it as "not ready" so it just won't pop up, some ECU scanners can read these "not ready" codes apparently
---------- Post added at 07:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:13 PM ----------
Not sure why , but they said it on MSF so I just repeated, maybe it's for a quicker ECU check and CEL pop up?
I should note , I haven't got a CEL yet either, strange aye
I got a CEL not on the first start after unplugging but the second and still have it haha
is there any power gains from doing this?
'05 6 MPS | BNR S3 | JBR 3.5" Intake | Corksport Airbox | CP-E 3.25" TMIC | M2 DP | CP-E CBE | CP-E/TT Diff Mounts | Autotech HPFP Internals | JBR REM, PMM, TMM | SURE Shortcut | SURE Countershift | SURE Anchors | Denso ITV22s | JBR TIGs | EGR Delete | Coolant Bypass | PTP Inj Seals | MD OCC | H&R Springs | Bilstein B8 Shocks | Car-LED Tails | Badgeless Grille | 6000k HIDs | OZ Ultraleggera 18x8 +48
Hi guys,
The EGR valve connector... is it the top 2 cable connector or the bottom 3 cable connector as shown in the pic of the OP? Does it also work on gen2?
Thanks in advance