Looking at suspension now on mine - (pretty happy with the ~200Kw 433Nm ATW I seem to be getting)
Don't have a big budget...don't want to lower...was looking around and discovered that
Best budget shocks seem to be Koni FSD. I should be able to get some for $560US + shipping - a set of 4 that is.
Then I've been talking to some local agents and it's been suggested that the best thing to do would be from there to leave the swaybars OEM, but get adjustable endlinks, and you can tighten them up and adjust the balance that way.
Lastly would be bushings etc...they are apparently ok for now...
Wondering if anyone has any suggestions for adjustable endlinks?
2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 shod with 225/45R18 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - 75Duro CPE mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS turbo inlet - 2XS short shift plate - 2XS "compact" shortest equal length turbo manifold - 2XS Racepipe - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Navigation box - PC based GPS and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery + isolator

Can i ask why you are wanting to leave the factory swaybars in ?

James, for a budget setup, go for the Koni FSD's, but do a set of springs too. I have KING SPRINGS in mine, they are perfect for daily driving then twisties on the weekends. They DO lower the car, but only by 20mm up front and 25mm at the back.
I can give you part numbers if you're keen. I paid $98 for fronts, then the same for the rears... BEST bang for your buck by far...
BTW, I have standard sway bars in mine. I see no reason in dishing out any money on them. My spring/shock combo suits the car and my driving style. Don't do things just because everyone else has done them. Each mod should be done for your driving style, NOT peer pressure.
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I really don't think that changing end links will make a difference unless they are worn, plus you can't adjust the geometry of the OEM bar. Aftermarket end links have a habit of being noisy and problematic because they are exposed to incredibly high stresses.
If you're on a budget the first thing to do is change the sway bar bushes to polyurethane. The reduction in body roll will be equal to about a 1mm increase in sway bar diameter, but without the hassle and expense of a sway bar change. Poly sway bar bushes are way in front of anything else in terms of bang for your buck (apart from pumping your tyres up).
FOR SALE

If only I had known when you were here, could have sampled mine.
I have the specific mazdaspeed Koni FSD. part number 4045. They are actually for Mazda 5. But testing showdown them to be better than the standard Mazda 3 kit. Number 4040.
Truly sensational, car rides much smoother, handles far better, as dad put it when he drove it, as good as his 6 MPS.
Definitely worth the money.
That's with stock springs, its not recommended to use other springs, and definitely not lowered with them.
couldn't recommend them more highly
Last edited by bd581; 17-02-2011 at 11:37 AM.
My understanding of the theory behind this recommendation goes something like this :
The OEM swaybars really are sufficient for my needs.
In order to tighten things a little, adjustable endlinks cat let you place tension.
Results won't be as track-ready as replacement swaybars, however, one can apparently tune it a little this way?
What was suggested to me was to get adjustable endlinks, tighten them, go driving, tighten them some more, go driving, etc, etc until the balance is where you like it.
The suggestion was that rear endlinks could do this.
I think if tightening the front up as well, this is when I would want sway-bars instead; however if I can keep the OEM sways and adjust the balance with rear enlinks, that's very attractive to me and a great street focused solution at minimum cost.
Usage requirements are very much real world everyday use, just adding an edge. I'm fairly set on the FSD + stock springs...Koni sport red or something like that - manually adjustable - would be a better match for lowered springs.
2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 shod with 225/45R18 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - 75Duro CPE mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS turbo inlet - 2XS short shift plate - 2XS "compact" shortest equal length turbo manifold - 2XS Racepipe - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Navigation box - PC based GPS and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery + isolator

if you want a firmer ride for cheap a mate of mine has a 2002 celica, was doing a tyre change and noticed a rubber disc in the springs on the front, figured out they are to keep the car from bouncing around when they are shipped here and someone from toyota forgot to take them out before it went to the dealership. we took them out gave its a spin and the suspension was heaps softer, so put them back and its all nice and tight again. would prob cost $20 each, i reckon![]()

Your setup, will be exactly same as mine.
Adjustable end links and FSD's
Havn't tried adjusting them to see if there is a difference. Really can't be bothered.
Happy with the way it is.
Make sure you get the 4045's they are a better match for the heavier mps springs.
For the real world driving your after, i don't think you'll get better.
Best compromise, for a daily driven, never tracked car.
To me, feels like the way Mazda should have made them in the first place.
Standard fitment to lamborghini and the championship winning mclaren f1 cars were running Koni shocks, essentially the same, until they were banned.
That's good enough for my Mazda I think


Nexus,
Where are you purchasing the shocks from? I might be interested in a set myself & could share the shipping costs.....