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Thread: How to lower 2010 mazda 3 MPS

  1. Default How to lower 2010 mazda 3 MPS

    I am wanting to lower my car. Was looking at HR or King Springs that will lower it 30mms but am not sure if i will need a camber kit for the front or rear. Can anyone help me?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    hunter valley
    Posts
    6,403

    Default

    you can buy rear camber adjusters from street unit. i highy recommend them. on my car i have the mazdaspeed kit, which comes with camber adjusters for the rear. i put the standard ones back on due to tyre rub, and thought with teh change of camber it might handle better(well the rear does but the front now feels like its understeering). Im now putting them back in as soon as i get the rear lip rolled!!! what happens is when u go into a corner the more + camber the rear steps out a bit which helps u point your front in the right direction doesnt feel like its understeering as bad . front not really needed for that amount drop. (thats from my experience)
    Many want Power not many hold it long.........

  3. #3

    Default

    Are the serial numbers for the lowered king spring the same as the springs for the bk ( 06-08 mps)

  4. Default

    not sure i was wondering the same thing king springs said there the same but im not to sure

  5. #5

    Default

    If Kings say they are the same, then they will be.

    I don't run camber adjusters on the rear in my car.

  6. Default

    What spings do you have? how much did you lower it? do you have negative camber? and what type of ride do you get? thanks

  7. #7

    Default

    I had Kings Springs in my car. Now I have Coil-overs. It lowers about 30mm. The ride is aawesome over the std setup.

    If you get Kings SSL rears and SL fronts, the car sits level. (Don't get SSL fronts, they are too low and don't allow any travel) I didn't have too much camber, it's the toe in/out on the rear that is the issue. Just make sure you take it to a good wheel alignment place and you'll be happy.

    PM Nirvandan (he has my old spring setup) or Mr Nasa (he has the same setup) Mr Nasa actually had SSL front (like I first did) and the ride is (in my opinion) abearable. I removed the springs the following weekend it was that bad.
    Achievements
    2009 Jamboree Street Compact Winner
    Aust. Quickest and Fastest MPS
    12.3 seconds @ 111Mph.
    Proven over the Qtr mile

    Another Mazda 3 MPS - Almost fully bolted - Waiting for a turbo upgrade - The weekend hack.
    Toyota Yaris - Coilovers, rollcage, raceseats, harnesses, 18s - Also waiting for a turbo upgrade.
    2011 AWD Territory - White and Slightly lowered on 22s - The tow car.
    2011 RWD Territory - Black on black and slammed on 22s - The family transporter.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Cowra, NSW
    Age
    74
    Posts
    684

    Default No Lowering a Car

    Here's a big controversial statement, I hope it generates a lot of discussion.

    'LOWERING A ROAD CAR DOES NOT ENHANCE THE HANDLING".

    If you do some research you will discover yourselves that the only reason to lower a road car is for asthetics.

    The body roll of the car is designed to transfer the load (weight of car) onto the turning wheels. This of course reduces the chance of the tyres loosing traction. Lowering without increasing traction by some method is pointless. This could mean wider tyres, but then wider tyres acually give less traction as the weight of the car is spread over a larger tyre surface area therefore reducing the weight per square inch (old imperial measurement lol).

    It is a whole different ball game on track/race cars as the extra traction is created by slick tyres. Slicks work completely differently to road tyres. Slicks melt and become sticky, sticking tyre to road. Treaded tyres try (mostly ineffectively) to use the tread to grab hold of the uneven surface. If you have ever driven a car with slicks on it on a blue metal road, you will certainly know there is no traction at all cold and only a bit more hot because of the rough surface of our roads.

    The answer is - lower your car if you are on a specific race track. Lower your car if you are after looks, but don't mind the car falling apart in the long term due to the rough ride, plus the other disadvantages as speed bumps, your passengers teeth chattering, etc .

    The moral - do some research, but if you want your car to handle leave it at standard height. Fit decent tyres, accurate wheel alignment, good springs and shocks all will improve the handling - but don't lower it.

    Many drivers confuse the upgraded springs and shocks as the lowering making the better handling but the reality is it is the better quality suspension that made the difference.

    There are plenty of professionally written books on wheel alignment which have sections on handling. Just don't let opinions get in the way of the truth. Get a copy of "Automotive Handbook" by BOSCH. ISBN 0-7680-0669-4. This book by Robert Bosch covers every part of a car and is very technical with electronics. It's a very handy reference source.

  9. Default

    thanks for that ,i was a bit put off king springs cause ive heard they give a firm ride how did yours ride

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rd415 View Post
    Here's a big controversial statement, I hope it generates a lot of discussion.

    'LOWERING A ROAD CAR DOES NOT ENHANCE THE HANDLING".

    If you do some research you will discover yourselves that the only reason to lower a road car is for asthetics.

    The body roll of the car is designed to transfer the load (weight of car) onto the turning wheels. This of course reduces the chance of the tyres loosing traction. Lowering without increasing traction by some method is pointless. This could mean wider tyres, but then wider tyres acually give less traction as the weight of the car is spread over a larger tyre surface area therefore reducing the weight per square inch (old imperial measurement lol).

    It is a whole different ball game on track/race cars as the extra traction is created by slick tyres. Slicks work completely differently to road tyres. Slicks melt and become sticky, sticking tyre to road. Treaded tyres try (mostly ineffectively) to use the tread to grab hold of the uneven surface. If you have ever driven a car with slicks on it on a blue metal road, you will certainly know there is no traction at all cold and only a bit more hot because of the rough surface of our roads.

    The answer is - lower your car if you are on a specific race track. Lower your car if you are after looks, but don't mind the car falling apart in the long term due to the rough ride, plus the other disadvantages as speed bumps, your passengers teeth chattering, etc .

    The moral - do some research, but if you want your car to handle leave it at standard height. Fit decent tyres, accurate wheel alignment, good springs and shocks all will improve the handling - but don't lower it.

    Many drivers confuse the upgraded springs and shocks as the lowering making the better handling but the reality is it is the better quality suspension that made the difference.

    There are plenty of professionally written books on wheel alignment which have sections on handling. Just don't let opinions get in the way of the truth. Get a copy of "Automotive Handbook" by BOSCH. ISBN 0-7680-0669-4. This book by Robert Bosch covers every part of a car and is very technical with electronics. It's a very handy reference source.
    YEEaahh but it lookz fully sik bro'

    I duno y all u dudeeez r botherin' paying $$$$ for springz..
    My cuz just cut mine.. and i scweeear da goowd i can corner like a million times fasta than my other cuzinz Hyundai excel bro. and that thing is fuuully sik slammed style.. my gooowd.. i sweear...

















    Man that hurt my head to write... but its full sik!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Sunshine Coast Qld
    Posts
    749

    Default

    I new there was something wrong about you Doc.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    hunter valley
    Posts
    6,403

    Default

    I laugh at that too. want it to handle better put a ferarri badge on it lol...

    ---------- Post added at 09:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:49 PM ----------

    hence why i went with a mazdaspeed kit, im sure mazda knows how to upgrade there cars

  13. #13

    Default

    Eibach Pro-Kit should be available in August sometime for 2010 MPS 3

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    North side, Vic
    Age
    37
    Posts
    6,745

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xssiiv View Post
    Eibach Pro-Kit should be available in August sometime for 2010 MPS 3
    I have these on my Gen1, Very happy.
    Cold wound progressive springs.

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