need info on my turbo mazda 6 mps

[buzzie89]

hi there. i recently just purchased a mazda 6 mps 05 model.. i want to know after i park up the car after driving should i leave it run for a while because of the turbo..and same when i start it to go should i leave it run for a while.

[Baz]

read your cars manual, you should always do it when you get a new car to get the most out of it and know how everything works, pretty sure the answer to this question is in there too, but yes, you should leave the car running for a minute or so after driving, depending how long you drove for and on start up you should let the car run until it idles at around 1-1.2K rpm

[Doug_MPS6]

1. Don't rev a turbo motor hard from a cold start, either loaded or unloaded. Start it with no throttle and let the initial fast idle settle down in about 1 minute, usually. You can move off slowly (e.g from your driveway) while this is happening. Once the temp guauge has moved past the lower mark, you can drive normally but don't load it up or accelerate hard until the temp is well up into the normal zone.

2. If you are at the end of a fast run, don't just stop and switch off. Let it idle for 30-60s to let all engine temps stabilize or oil will bake itself into carbon on the turbo spindle and chew out the seals in short order.

3. At then end of normal drives, you can turn off almost immediately. Usually you've been manoeuvering at the end of a drive anyway (into office car-park, into home driveway, etc), so that is actually better than sitting idling, as the car is still moving, albeit slowly and has a chance to stabilize.

Just treat it with consideration. Remember that turbo engines run pretty warm and often with more stress than NA engines. I've never had a turbo issue in almost 70,000kms. Touch wood.

[mech81]

Second what Doug said. Treat the engine well and it will reward you with longer miles

[buzzie89]

cheers guys for the info..good to know that early as only have the car 2 days.any other things i should know about the car appreciate the help

[mech81]

Check out issues with mps6 thread here. Plenty of good pointers

[dazza]

1 word, mounts :P

[Doug_MPS6]

And don't dump the clutch and launch hard. 3rd gear will catch anyone that matters so why burn out clutches and tyres and stress CV joints and diff and engine mounts, and usually the synchro if you try to rip through the shifts. It just ain't worth it on a routine basis. They are a high performance touring car with long legs, not a streetlight dragster.

Remember that replacing the clutch means pulling the engine out.

[Zebbstar]

The manual states about 30seconds
but as already said just drive it normally once your coming to your destination
I myself have bad luck with cars and I just put a turbotimer in (more than likely a overkill but I rather be safe)

[buzzie89]

cheers guys!! one last thing is few people said i should get a dump valve put in? wat do you think?

[Doug_MPS6]

Buzzie, the car already has what you term a "dump valve" (which is actually a term reserved for another similar valve with similar function, which I won't explore here). In the MPS, these are blow-off valves (BOV). Most people like to put them in if they want to vent partially or fully to atmosphere to get a whoosh noise. The less-frequently understood function of replacing the stock valve which has a fixed setting is that a BOV with a variable spring setting enables you to tune the BOV response according to the boost that you have set (if you have a means of doing it), to allow the BOV to relieve the back-pressure just enough so the turbo doesn't stall on throttle lift-off, but not so much that your turbo has to spool up again to re-build pressure in the plumbing. There is more BS written about BOV's than almost any other part of a turbo car, so be wary of the idiots and snake-oil men. A lot of people will have it that the stock BOV "leaks". They do but rarely and often only after someone has wound the boost up above stock settings of around 13.6psi. If you don't plan on upping the boost right now, then forget the BOV - its $250 you don't need to spend. Adding a BOV will not improve your performance by one kilowatt, but it just gives you tuning flexibility if you choose to mess with the boost or have a long route of extended boost plumbing, as with a Front-mount Intercooler where there is lots of air under pressure that requires more control. Now this is just my opinion, but if you want to add a BOV just to get a port discharge "whoosh" noise, that is up to you, but the noise can get tiresome and again, it doesn't make your car go better, but makes people stare at you with varying opinions, most of them uncharitable. I left mine open for a day and with lots of boost it made a fair noise and scared old ladies, one of whom got such a fright she dropped her shopping. I closed it off and enjoy the peace and it still enables me to tune it to the new higher pressures. I'd rather spend that sort of money towards a Short Ram Induction, a good air-filter and a nice larger diameter Turbo Inlet Pipe. That opens the induction up and gets rid of a lot of bulky air-filter and resonator plumbing and the car will breath better and sound nice inside but not intrusive. I haven't mentioned an Exhaust Dump Pipe here, the other half of improving breathing, as it is considerably more expensive at around $600-900, plus fitting, as I sense you are not about to fit it yourself.

[buzzie89]

thanks doug..gave me a good insight into that situation! to be honest i aint a boy racer or think the car is a toy..but i sometimes like the noise (whooosh) but dont want messing with the engine too much and wont be upping the boost for now.i thought it was just a simple job to put in

[Yeldarb]

As Doug has mentioned, the SRI is a valuable improvement, plus most of them will give you that spooling noise I think you might be after. And won't scare the Granny's.

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