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Thread: Autotech HPFP Concerns

  1. Default Autotech HPFP Concerns

    Hi guys, wondering if somebody could clarify some of the concerns that I have regarding the HPFP.
    I finished the install yesterday and followed instructions, cleaned the pump and installed it properly back on although it took a bit of force to get the piston back in (it didn't just slide, needed to be jiggled around to slide in). Installed everything back in and pressed in ON position 3 times and then started the car up. I noticed a ticking in the pump which i didn't quite noticed it before with the stock internals. Took it for a drive and i've noticed that the pressure was dropping into the 280-320 when depressing (4th gear) until I hit the throttle again. But at idle its 430 and when I gave it a bit at WOP (2500-4500rpm) it was holding at 1680-1750 without dropping. I drove the car for about 20 km to work so i'm thinking maybe its just breaking in or somethings wrong with the pump?

    Have read the US forums and they say its normal but I'm a not concerned to be honest. Also got a Stage 1 98 OTS map installed.


  2. #2
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    Probably find it's always had those little dips to ~300psi, you're just finally paying attention to it all

    Sounds like it's idling fine (400ish psi) and holding pressure at WOT, so I wouldn't worry

  3. Default

    Also I think I'm hitting either fuel cut or boost as in 3rd gear on WOT at around 4500 revs the car just kicked 0ut a puf of black smoke and my knock retard showed 6 % which is very worrying. Usually I get nothing over 1, maybe I just need a custom tune to have everything work nice, since I have installed the V3 I haven't touched the AFR or the MAF.

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    Got a log?
    Probably easiest way to help you

  5. Default

    Yeah I did a quick one a week ago, will post it later on when i get home. I'm reluctant to do another one as i have read about detonation/knocking and even though i cant hear any pings from the engine, I could hear some rattling(sounds like sticking your finger in a plastic fan) underneath the car in the exhaust right where i got my test pipe when i Was WOT as well. It happened to me once before like 1 year ago a couple of months after i installed my test pipe, so i might lift her up and have a look underneath and see if the exhaust is all good.

  6. #6

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    The ticking from the HPFP is normal. It does get louder after you upgrade your internals.

    Quote Originally Posted by gopo View Post
    Also I think I'm hitting either fuel cut or boost as in 3rd gear on WOT at around 4500 revs the car just kicked 0ut a puf of black smoke and my knock retard showed 6 % which is very worrying. Usually I get nothing over 1, maybe I just need a custom tune to have everything work nice, since I have installed the V3 I haven't touched the AFR or the MAF.
    You would know if it was fuel cut / boost cut as your head will bounce off the steering wheel. 6º of KR at WOT would probably feel like a big misfire, but not quite as brutal as boost cut.

    If I were you I wouldn't go WOT again until you know what the problem is. I'm interested to see your logs.
    2005 Mazda 6 MPS: HTP 3.5" SRI – GTX3071R – Full Race mani – TiAL 44mm EWG – 2XS 3" DP – HDi FMIC – 3" SS CBE – AutoTech HPFP – CorkSport EBCS – Bosch 3 Bar MAP – TurboSmart BOV – AWR 88A TMM/PMM – JBR 80A RMM – KW V2 – NGK Iridium IX – Damond SSP – Work XT7

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  7. Default

    So driving home from work, i didn't go past 3000 revs and was babying it all the way and in 3rd and 4 th gear my knock retard started showing 2 & 3 even at low revs for brief period of times. Heres the log that i did last week, I didnt go past 4K revs and its actually my first time trying the logging option on my V3.datalog3.csv

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    Quote Originally Posted by gopo View Post
    So driving home from work, i didn't go past 3000 revs and was babying it all the way and in 3rd and 4 th gear my knock retard started showing 2 & 3 even at low revs for brief period of times. Heres the log that i did last week, I didnt go past 4K revs and its actually my first time trying the logging option on my V3.datalog3.csv
    Hehe, welcome to partial throttle knock paranoia! Don't worry, perfectly normal!

    That log looks fine to me... But a 3rd gear from 3k to 6.5k (that one only went to 5k) would give us a better indication...
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

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    http://stratifiedauto.com/blog/knock...-kr-explained/

    If you want to read more about knock

  10. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    Hehe, welcome to partial throttle knock paranoia! Don't worry, perfectly normal!

    That log looks fine to me... But a 3rd gear from 3k to 6.5k (that one only went to 5k) would give us a better indication...
    Cheers , will try and do one later in the night on a private road if i can find one.

  11. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    Yeah I have read for the past 3 days from US forums to the UK and especially on here anything to do with Knock/detonation. So much so my most used website at my work laptop has to do with MPS . One thing is for sure if I WOT and my KR goes over 2/3 and stays like that not going down then it will be very expensive finding. Although I have read up about swapping to one step colder plugs and all that, boost leaks and exhaust issues, bumpy roads and so on.

    I've got my CPE TMIC coming tomorrow and my SSQV BOV and will get my car up and look at any boost leaks and exhaust leaks if any and tighten anything that needs to be. Was also going to get Purple Drank to remotely tune my car, but want to get rid of this KR issue first

  12. Default

    So here's my Second WOT log datalog5.csv , I had almost the same problem KR jumped to 6 and it hesitate at around 5000 rpm its like it skipped a beat but not as violent as before. Starting to think something is seriously wrong (bend rod) or someshit.

  13. #13
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    Wastegate duty cycle is doing something silly at 4700RPM. Could the KR be kicking in to pre empt the incoming boost spike or does that only operate when the sensor detects something?

    AFR's are fine until that point.

    I'm no datalog expert but that KR/Wastegate Duty Cycle and Boost creep after 4700RPM looks a bit wonky to me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gopo View Post
    So here's my Second WOT log datalog5.csv , I had almost the same problem KR jumped to 6 and it hesitate at around 5000 rpm its like it skipped a beat but not as violent as before. Starting to think something is seriously wrong (bend rod) or someshit.
    The hesitation is probably just the massive drop in timing (6* is ~50whp)..

    It's weird you have THAT much knock on an ots map... What petrol you using?

    If you're likely to fill up soon, try putting in 4-5L of e85 (or e-flex), that should tell you if it's a petrol issue or false knock...
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

  15. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SarcasticOne View Post
    The hesitation is probably just the massive drop in timing (6* is ~50whp)..

    It's weird you have THAT much knock on an ots map... What petrol you using?

    If you're likely to fill up soon, try putting in 4-5L of e85 (or e-flex), that should tell you if it's a petrol issue or false knock...
    Yeah i was thinking of doing that as I saw on the US forums that thats what they do. But as soon as picked up my CP-E TMIC today went past Repco and got some new Irridium plugs with a discount paid only 115$ instead of 140+$. Took of my original sparks and checked them to see if they had increased in gap, found 2 at normal eg .70mm but the other 2 >0.75mm almost 0.8 mm, also they were so freaking tight as well had a couple of goes at a couple of them to actually take them out. Installed the new ones, checked again for any loose hoses and everything was tight, installed the TMIC and took for a drive to the missus when i came home decided to WOT in 3rd went to about 5500 rpm and the car felt amazing (lost a bit of traction as well) and barely any knocking present max was 0.65 and boost was at 18.2 psi but i forgot to log it grrrr. So fingers crossed that it may have resolved the issue.

  16. Default

    Also im always using BP ultimate 98, but i gotta say ever since i filled up my KR started being over the top a bit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gopo View Post
    Yeah i was thinking of doing that as I saw on the US forums that thats what they do. But as soon as picked up my CP-E TMIC today went past Repco and got some new Irridium plugs with a discount paid only 115$ instead of 140+$. Took of my original sparks and checked them to see if they had increased in gap, found 2 at normal eg .70mm but the other 2 >0.75mm almost 0.8 mm, also they were so freaking tight as well had a couple of goes at a couple of them to actually take them out. Installed the new ones, checked again for any loose hoses and everything was tight, installed the TMIC and took for a drive to the missus when i came home decided to WOT in 3rd went to about 5500 rpm and the car felt amazing (lost a bit of traction as well) and barely any knocking present max was 0.65 and boost was at 18.2 psi but i forgot to log it grrrr. So fingers crossed that it may have resolved the issue.
    still a bit of a rip off at $120 a set :/

    and yeah, generally the spark plugs shouldn't be more than ~.026 or .024 of an inch (.66-.06 of a mm) so it certainly could have been that!

    sounds like it's all fixed, and that's the main thing!
    Newbie FAQ My Build Thread
    From stock, to GT3071, to substantially less modded, many lessons learned!
    3" HTP | 100 Cel DP | Autotech HPFP | AP V3 - Self Tuned on E20 | JBR RSB | CPE S2 REM | JBR Shifter Bushings

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