Fuel Pump Upgrades

[SarcasticOne]

Cause i've had a few people asking me this... figured i would make a thread on it... that way i can be lazy and just link people to it... 2 years ago i knew f*ck all about cars and mods and stuff, so i'll try and write this in a way that even mechanically illiterate me could under stand

note: unless there is an "official" australian distributor for these parts, im not going to link you to a specific company, but will put down the company who sells them in the "can buy from:" area

I'll break it down into a three sections:

1. What pump to get/Where to get it?
2. Why/when do i need one?
3. How do I install it/Who do i get to install it?

What pump to get/Where to get it:
ok, you want a new/better fuel pump, now which do you get?
there is 2 sorts, a full pump replacement, or just replacing the internals
FULL REPLACEMENT:
CPE high pressure fuel pump | MPS Garage
It costs a bit, and you either have to send your stocker back, or pay an extra $500.
OFFICIALLY, it's only available through MPS Garage...
(why is it the best? because it's made of crushed unicorn horns...)

Mazda DISI Complete High Pressure Fuel Pump | HPFPUpgrade.com
Comes in 2 "stages" depending on how hard you want to push your car
Once again, have to return your stock fuel pump, or pay an extra $350.

HPFP INTERNALS:
note with these, when you get the internals, quite often it will say it's for a VW/Audi, this is fine, our pumps are the same, assuming you dont just blindly buy a set of internals, but ones under a MPS/mazdaspeed section of a store, you will be fine.

AutoTech
ok, after much reading through MSF, these seem to be the "flavour of the month" atm no reported failures, and they are supporting people pushing in excess of 450hp (340kw) at the wheels
can buy from: edgeautosports

KMD
these seem to be second choice on MSF, there was one bad batch that went out, but apart from that they're holding pretty well... the first MS3 to crack 500whp was running these. KMD is working on a fuel pump to support 600+ whp
can buy from: KMDtuning

PTP
ok, PTP seems to be the 3rd choice... few issues have happened... but mostly it's pretty good
can buy from: ProtegeGarage, PT-Performance.com

Carpe Diem Fuel Pump Upgrade
ok, im not going to suggest these to anyone, based on the simple fact that this company is no longer in business
Carpe Diem Fuel Pump Upgrade | MPS Garage

TRZ
once again offered by MPSG, cant find anything except this:
tzr fuel pump internals - anyone heard of these? - Mazdaspeed Forums
once again, not going to suggest these...

Why/When do I need one:
MSF will say "anything more than an intake, get an upgraded fuel pump" i will say something similar...
if you're doing anything more than an intake, make sure you log your fuel pressure (dashhawk/torque for android/etc), and as soon as it starts to drop below about 1600psi (11,000KPA) during a 3rd or 4th gear full throttle run from 2500 to 6000rpm, get one...
it'll be pretty dramatic if it happens, you'll see your fuel pressure suddenly drop to like 600-700psi (4000-5000KPA) for a decent chunk of rpm's

you need a proper functioning fuel pump to stop your car blowing up...

please dont fill this thread up with "i have x/y/z mods, do i need a FP?" LOG YOUR FUEL PRESSURE and if it's struggling, upgrade your pump...

How do I Install/Who do i get to install:
short answer, i dont know how to install them, im not a mechanic, i got a friend to do it...
if you (like me) are mechanically inept and cant do it, get a trusted friend, or local mechanic... in theory it shouldnt take more than 2 hours...

Mitch has typed out a how to in this thread: LINK

if anyone feels the need to add more to this, let me know and i'll update it...

Cheers from your mechanically inept forum dweller

[luke 3mps]

Maybe someone who has pulled one out can give us a guide.

[Jrbris]

I might be able to do a guide, I just ordered the autotech internals.

[Bakis]

I'm leaning in the way of Autotech atm, but might try and contact RPMmotorsport about the CP-E to see if how much hassle there is shipping the fuel pump overseas...

[3MPSPWR]

Very good guide! I've been looking into getting a CP-e one. But they have been backordered for sometime now

[Cton]

EdgeAutosport.com had CP-E in stock not long ago at all. They seem to get them in stock very often.
I'd be contacting them about 1 if you haven't.

[3MPSPWR]

Ah have they? I asked RPM store and they have got like 1 more s I have been in contact with CP-e though to ask questions about their FMIC for fitment of aussie MPS's and they told me all their fuel pumps are currently on backordered again. eh. Yanks going crazy about these pumps. Funny how not many people here have replaced theirs.

[Bakis]

Edgemotorsport i think have the policy of sending you pump over first then receiving the CP-E one back... But i'll double check.

Also what is the warranty on the Autotech Internals?

[MPS2NV]

Tools use to carry out internal upgrade are prob not in you home DIY kit, you will need torx socket (think it was size 6, never looked), 19mm spanner, security type torx bit , deep socket (from memory) also 19mm single hex, small pick or flat screw driver and bench vice ( with some means of protection to avoid external damage to the pump body)

As I have access to workshop equipment I dissmantled the whole pump cleaning and drying it completely before assembling. It may not be needed but it would be poor not to do so! If you are going to attempt to do this job and your not mecahnically minded pay attention to part orientation as inside the pump is more involved then what you might think given its size. Make sure you have the above equipment before you touch the pump!

As Sams car has aftermarket TMIC I was able to gain access to HPFP easy without need to remove other parts, covers etc... Make sure the car is cool and hasn't been running, best to be safe when working on your pride and joy! Expect fuel pressure when disconnecting the the fuel lines from the pump! watch your eyes!

Step 1, Turn off ignition and remove key! Disconnect the battery also. Remove engine covers as required to access HPFP ( I managed to have enough access to remove pump body!) disconnect the wire to sensor on top of the HPFP

Step 2, disconnect the fuel lines from the HPFP expect fuel to spray your in your eyes , be gentle with the yellow and blue clip, the yellow clip will click out easy but dont be to rough on the blue clip! the position of the blue clip is critical on re installation! Remove the high pressure line nut from the bottom of the HPFP 19mm spanner ( I advise packing a rag under the pump to prevent the nut sliding down the fuel line into the abiss lol)

Step 3, There is 3 torx bolts holding the HPFP into its position, undo each of these bolts a little at a time to let the pump come out evenly from its housing ( depending on the engine position the cam lobe may have full lift on the pump, this may be an issue on installation, if that is the case turn engine clock wise from crank pulley to allow pump be refitted easier, you will work it out!) The pump should now come out! make sure the bucket doesn't fall out of the hole where the pump was, cover the hole with a clean rag to make sure shit doesn't go in it!

Step 4, I suggest doing this part in a clean tidy place! The factory spring and piston will come out easy, gently hold the spring and pull it, the spring and shaft should now be in your hand! You will see a shiney nut where the spring and shaft came from, you will need to hold the pump body in the vice (with timbers or rags, dont crush it ethier!) the nut is tight! undo the nut and pay attention to the piston inside! the ends are different sizes! if you keep the parts in correct orientation it will give you more confidence that you are doing it right!

Step 5, With your torx bits remove the 2 screws and plate, inside are some discs and rings, dont **** this up. make sure they go in the same way they came out. This allows you so clean the whole hole HPFP body, it will have a fine coating of wear debree in it. Clean it and the parts well, dry it well! then install the disc's and plate. This step is optional but its best time to do it!


Step 6, Its time to install the new internals, you will notice that the new piston and shaft can only be fitted before the retaing nut can go back into the HPFP body, ensure the new piston is in the correct way! use a slight smear of clean oil on the parts, gently push the shaft through the nut, there is a seal in there that you dont wont to damage. The spring and new collets and retaining ring can go on once the piston, shaft and retaining nut have been installed. The new shaft will not pull out like the factory one did but this step is also important to avoid a pump failure! Pull the shaft out as far as it will go, place the spring over the shaft followed by the retaining ring and 2 little collets. Pay attention to the seating position of the collets, retainer and spring. gently push the shaft inwards and check that the collets are seated correctly! The HPFP is now ready to be refitted!

Step 7, Make sure the shaft is not desturbed when re fitting! Align the HPFP and gently make push the pump back into its position (refer to step 3 if it sits out to far! remember the spring may have full lift on it!) start the 3 torx bolts by fingers and eveny wind them in to seat the HPFP into its original position then finnally nip the bolts back up. (some one might like to add tensions to this) A 1/4' rachet is perfect.

Step 8, You can now reconnect all the fuel lines and sensor paying attention to the fuel clips as mentioned above, reconnect your battery ( make sure you dont have fuel everywhere ) Turn your igniton to the reds and allow the fuel system to prime, check to see that you have no fuel leaks from the lines before starting! If you are confident that all is well start your car!

Although that sounds like alot of work this could be done in around an hour, its not a race though so take your time and enjoy DIY!

[kritz]

Just wanted to chime in here, I have been running an Autotech pump for 20,000 miles now and the passed 5k on a 50% e85 mix without a hickup. The install takes all of 45 minutes I. Would use a nylon ziptie on the hard line on the bottom of the pump to prevent the nut sliding down into the bowels of the engine compartment. Make sure to use a nonchlorinated contact cleaner to clean the parts prior to putting the bugger back together. And lube it(the new pump internals and o-ring) with the oil you use in your car. The socket you need to remove the pumps 3 retaining bolts is an E8 socket. Don't over torque the bolts on the pump or the hard line nut(19mm) and after start up look for any leaks. The PTP version3 pump is in use in my mates car (kmac on MSF) he is in the +500hp club.