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Thread: Coolant temps too low

  1. #1
    andrewcl is offline New Member
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    Default Coolant temps too low

    Hi all. New member so excuse me if i missed this in another thread.
    Have there been any common problems with tstats in the past that are known problems. My mps6 wich has had a rebuilt engine close to 5k ago runs cold all the time except at idle in traffic were it gets too around 75c. But as soon as i get some airflow to the rad it rolls back to around 45-50c. I would think this is too low for normal driving and probably riches up the fuel mix too much as im getting around 14l/100 or close to 400k a tank. I suspect a open tstat but am i wrong could this be something else. No cel so far.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

  2. #2
    Nexus's Avatar
    Nexus is offline Administrator
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    Hi and welcome.
    Failed thermostats resulting in unusually low temps does seem to be a fairly common issue. The severity can vary a lot - for me I had this issue in my BK 3 at >160000K - it would show normal temperature on guage most of the time but in ambient temperatures below 18degC it would fail to get up to normal temperature. In stop/start town driving it'd be barefly noticable but as soon as hit the highway temperature would drop well below normal.

  3. #3
    shephard7 is offline New Member
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    Nice to have a chat with you here. I am newbie here too. I even didn't try this one yet. So can't give your better feedback. Sorry!

  4. #4
    andrewcl is offline New Member
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    Are there aftermarket tstats that are better suited to the job or is oem the way to go. As i have noticed there seems to be 2 sorts of tstat available

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    Nexus's Avatar
    Nexus is offline Administrator
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrewcl View Post
    Are there aftermarket tstats that are better suited to the job or is oem the way to go. As i have noticed there seems to be 2 sorts of tstat available

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
    Hi - I'm not sure. I'm thinking that unless you have a built engine with specific cooling requirements I'd be inclined to stick with OEM. Someone else might be able to add more info.
    "Blue Meanie" 2007 Aurora Blue MPS 3 - 18x7.5+48 Enkei RPF1 - 225/45R18 - 3.5" ETS TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - HKS/CPE BPV - 2XS inlet - 2XS short shift - 2XS turbo manifold - Hypertech tune - Leather/Aluminium handbrake - Momo shifty knob - 7" touchscreen - JDM Mazda Retractable dashtop screen assembly - PC based GPS and instrumentation - 36AH reserve battery and C-TEK isolator - TEIN Street Advanced coilovers 1" drop - Superpro bushings - 220Kw/410Nm.

    "Lipstick" 2013 Velocity Red MPS 3 - 225/40R18 Federal RS-RR - CPE TMIC - CPE stg 2 mount - COBB Stage 1 98 octane tune - COBB shifty knob - 2XS short shift.

  6. #6
    MPS2NV's Avatar
    MPS2NV is offline Resident Filth Monger
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    OE is fine, they do tend to jam up which prevents the by-pass circuit operating correctly which modulates the temp control of the engine, when this happens rather than the coolant recirculating through the engine it is directed through the radiator all the time which is why you notice long warm up periods and temp drops when airflow to radiator is increased.

  7. #7
    andrewcl is offline New Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by MPS2NV View Post
    OE is fine, they do tend to jam up which prevents the by-pass circuit operating correctly which modulates the temp control of the engine, when this happens rather than the coolant recirculating through the engine it is directed through the radiator all the time which is why you notice long warm up periods and temp drops when airflow to radiator is increased.
    Your right . Cheap fix in the end anyway. Probably a good idea to flush the engine any way after a new build.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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