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Thread: Installing a radar detector

  1. Default Installing a radar detector

    Hi All,

    Just bought a Valentine 1 to install in our 3 MPS. In WA as well :-)

    I want to hard wire it in and it comes with the necessary kit to do it, and I am comfortable in doing it, but I wouldn't have the foggiest on how to get the power cord behind the dash near the windscreen. I haven't attempted to take any part of the dash apart as the car is only 2 days old :-P Any suggestions on getting that power cable behind the dash? I have done installations of other gear in cars before so I'm not afraid to do it, just don't want to damage the dash!

    Cheers :-)

  2. #2

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    From power supply under the panel over to the RH door column, out the perforated RH metal panelling, up under the front of the door seal rubber, then lead it to your screen mount along the RHS and then front of the plastic dash top. Be careful of not fouling the airbag cover. Depends though if you are dash, mirror or visor-mounting your detector. Is it legal in your state?

  3. Default

    Thank you for the response. The power supply you mentioned, is it in the drivers side foot well area? Just want to clear up the location of the power source before I start ripping panels off :-P

    Perfectly legal here in WA :-D

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    So moving to WA, now to convince the wife....

  5. #5

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    The best power source is the back of the cigarette lighter. That will involve lifting the centre console cup-holder out, then the console itself. There are directions on this site that will assist you. The only alternative I have used is to remove the steering column covers and take power from the ignition switch leads. The wires are tiny and you sometimes have to splice extra wire in for this. Put fuses on everything, rather than risk a short in your wires or equipment from stuffing up something else already fitted in the car or worse, your ECU! Make sure also you don't fit so much kit all taking power off the cigarette lighter that you run that circuit too hot!
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug_MPS6 View Post
    The best power source is the back of the cigarette lighter. That will involve lifting the centre console cup-holder out, then the console itself. There are directions on this site that will assist you.
    Thank you very much for this advice! Now to get the power cable from the cigarette lighter area to pop out in the middle of the dash where the windscreen is, is it best to run the cable to the right of the cig lighter, past the steering area and pop it out at the door pillar, run it up the door seals and shove it between the cracks along the dash? Or is there an easier way?

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    Just did a search for dash removal and it comes up with one for the MPS 6. Could you please post the link for the 3?

  8. #8

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    You don't need to remove the dash - only the centre console. If you look underneath, you will realize that there is no way you would want to tackle pulling the entire dash (if that is what you mean). Search "centre console removal" - I'm sure you will find some details. The route for the wire will depend on where and how you want to mount your detector. For the Valentine type (I have similar) I was content to just plug it into the cig lighter socket and run the concertina cable up to the sucker mount on the screen. Detectors get stolen more often than you can possibly believe so it is good to have them easily-removable. I take mine off every time I park and stick it under the floor mat in my other car, as I've had three screen mounted types stolen, which has cost me a broken quarter light or rear side window each time in previous cars. In the MPS, the detector is hard wired in and invisible, so I'm not longer worried. The readout is on the extreme RHS so I run my wire across under the column and up the door pillar rubber to just at the foot of the pillar airbag cover. You may need to be creative. Sometimes a dash mat can obscure an unsightly cable.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  9. #9

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    Can I just ask what type of radar are you trying to avoid?
    In SA the radar cars are forward facing detection and our fixed cam's don't use radar for detection, therefore the only detection you would be avoiding would be a forward facing radar vehicle on the opposite side of the road. These units can detect up to 5 lanes of traffic (on a standard 3m lane width) travelling in whatever direction the unit has been configured to on that occasion which can be easily seen.

    Are there other types of radar which detect from the approach to the camera car?
    Can the unit you have purchased detect these forward facing radar units? If so I'm getting one!
    Last edited by Pringle; 22-04-2013 at 07:32 PM.
    If its got tits or wheels...it'll be nothing but trouble!

  10. Default

    Thanks for the reply Doug :-) I appreciate your advice.

    Pringle: in WA they use forward and rear facing cameras. The valentine can detect the forward facing ones from a few hundred metres back and the rear facing ones around 100-200m depending on conditions. There are quite a few videos on youtube showing the detector doing its thing. I'm not worried about fixed cams on the side of the road as there are only a handful being used and I know where they all are. The traffic light ones are becoming more common but don't use laser, so you just don't speed through lights :-P

    I'm not a hoon by any means, it's just nice to have the warning of an upcoming radar so I can ensure I am 100% not exceeding the limit going past it.

  11. #11

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    If you don't want to splice wires in your new car you can just open passenger side front door and there is a fuse box on the side of the glove box, just open that and use an add a fuse or a fuse link on one of the fuses that come on when ignition is on. Did this for my gauges so I know there's is one that works when ignition comes on. Was on a Gen 2 3MPS. Cheers.

  12. #12

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    I didn't address the types of radar or laser that you are trying to avoid. It varies from state to state. You need to plan for Poliscan laser which shoots both ways here in WA, but Multanovas still get used in the rural areas as they were hand-me-down from the urban areas. Then you need to allow for handheld laser guns and mobile mounted ones in cars. I don't speed crazily at all but I resent Govt's capitalizing on a few kmh over the limit in areas which are perfectly safe and which are exploited by the camera operators. Most roads determine their owns speeds for the majority of drivers. I wouldn't mind so much if the $$ went to proper training of all the crap drivers here instead of subsidizing Govt coffers drained by outrageous Public Service waste and superannuation contributions.

    That LH fuse box is fine to use too, as long as you use the correct side of the fuse, and its practicality is subject to where you want to run the wire to.
    Last edited by Doug_MPS6; 23-04-2013 at 06:39 PM.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  13. #13

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    I couldn't agree more. In SA we have so many fixed cams its ridiculous. Last financial year there was over 30 installed and this financial year there has been more than that. We have them on rail crossings, traffic signals and on strait stretches. The latest thing is point to point cameras. Cameras have been seen mounted in car roof carry boxes, wheelie bins and even telstra tents.
    I'm interested to hear how effective it turns out for you.

  14. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jnt View Post
    If you don't want to splice wires in your new car you can just open passenger side front door and there is a fuse box on the side of the glove box, just open that and use an add a fuse or a fuse link on one of the fuses that come on when ignition is on. Did this for my gauges so I know there's is one that works when ignition comes on. Was on a Gen 2 3MPS. Cheers.
    Legend! I'll give this a crack.

    Speed cameras are being put into sneaky spots and downhill runs too, anything to catch you doing that few to many kph over the limit. Like Doug said, if the money was actually being used properly then it wouldn't be so bad...

  15. #15

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    I used to have a radar detector back in the day until the fine for getting caught for 1 reached $2000

  16. #16

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    I have a fundamental objection to a law that says you cannot own something. I'd like to see a few defences mounted against convictions of this sort. Australia is notable for inventing these sorts of specious "laws" based on wowserism and ill-considered, poorly researched data and reputed "findings". All this one seems to do is boost the state coffers. I know I can think of a dozen of arguments to counter my own, such as not owning a nuclear weapon, but in this instance I think the draconian provision is not justified by the results of the measures they claim that your ownership of a detector is intended to defeat. I think a detector tends to keep you more in line and aware and, in some models, alerts you to upcoming "black-spot" intersections so you do slow down for them.

    I have no objection to fixed cameras at traffic lights. Speeding through an intersection or worse, running a red light deserves being picked up on.
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  17. #17

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    So I'm guessing the police have a radar detector for the radar detector?


    Peter "SLIXX"

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by slixx View Post
    So I'm guessing the police have a radar detector for the radar detector?


    Peter "SLIXX"
    Every state except WA where there allowed,some of the new detectors are undetectable by RDD.

  19. #19

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    You have to pay decent money for a non-detectable one, and this excludes almost all of the screen mount ones I've researched. You have to go built-in, and use the military technologies. With the advent of so many radar cruise devices in cars now, the police can't really distinguish anti-laser or anti-radar radar from cruise radar or even parking sensors. It is now important to use laser-sensing gear, as laser speed detection is now more common than microwave. But no matter how good your kit is, you still only have a limited time to wash off your speed, even with jammers that will only jam for 4-6 seconds so there is nothing the anti-jam technologies can reliably get a hold of for long enough.

    Always reminds me of "Man builds a smarter mouse-trap, God builds a smarter mouse!"

    Now all we need is laser-seeking missiles! Then I guess we will see police cars with anti-missile missiles, and so ad infinitum
    CP_e Standback & PNP; CP_e 3" SS Downpipe; Corksport FMIC with Top-mount K&N filter & OEM Ram CAI; Turbosmart BOV; Dashhawk; Prosport Boost Guage; JBR solid shift bushes; DBA 4000 Wiper-Slot front rotors; Hawk Ferro-Carbon HPS Street front brake pads (@ 69,000km); Sumitomo HTRZIII's in 225/45 x 18

  20. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Doug_MPS6 View Post
    You have to pay decent money for a non-detectable one, and this excludes almost all of the screen mount ones I've researched. You have to go built-in, and use the military technologies. With the advent of so many radar cruise devices in cars now, the police can't really distinguish anti-laser or anti-radar radar from cruise radar or even parking sensors. It is now important to use laser-sensing gear, as laser speed detection is now more common than microwave. But no matter how good your kit is, you still only have a limited time to wash off your speed, even with jammers that will only jam for 4-6 seconds so there is nothing the anti-jam technologies can reliably get a hold of for long enough.

    Always reminds me of "Man builds a smarter mouse-trap, God builds a smarter mouse!"

    Now all we need is laser-seeking missiles! Then I guess we will see police cars with anti-missile missiles, and so ad infinitum
    You seem to know ur stuff doug. Im still a bit confused tho...
    I used to use(and in fact still own) a beltronics xr70 around Perth and the southwest. It was not the best or most expensive radar detector, but on highway mode it gave 150-1000m warning for mulitnovas (KA band i think), picked up coppers dashmounted radars easily and from yonks away when they had them switched on(K band) and beeped like hell when you were hit with a laser handheld, which of course was ussualy too late. Highway mode turned X band off and increased sensitivty to KA band.

    Clearly things have changed with this Poliscan deal and the removal of multinovas from the metro area. My question to you is; are they still using dash mounted k band radar or just poliscn in the cars now as well as on highways

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